织物结构对热致变色涤纶机织物变色效果的影响  

Effect of fabric structure on the color change for thermochromic polyester woven fabric

作　　者：刘丹[1] 张长欢[1,2,3] 陈丽华 李秋宇[1,2,3] LIU Dan;ZHANG Changhuan;CHEN Lihua;LI Qiuyu(School of Material Design and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Beijing Key Laboratory of Clothing Materials R&D and Assessment,Beijing 100029,China;Beijing Engineering Research Center of Textile Nanofiber,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院材料设计与工程学院,北京100029 [2]服装材料研究开发与评价北京市重点实验室,北京100029 [3]北京市纺织纳米纤维工程技术研究中心,北京100029

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2021年第4期5-8,26,共5页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：北京服装学院高水平教师队伍建设专项资金(BIFTXJ201917);北京服装学院院内科技重点项目(2020A-04);高性能多功能冬奥服装服饰研究开发(Z181100005918005);北京市属高等学校高层次人才引进与培养计划项目-北京市长城学者培育计划(CTT&TCD20180321);科技创新服务能力建设-纺织纳米纤维工程技术研究中心(KJCX1902-30299/001)。

摘　　要：用涤纶热致变色长丝(玫红变白色)作为经纱和纬纱,设计织造了平纹、斜纹和缎纹3种组织、不同密度的9种机织物,分别对其变色后的色彩明暗度L^(*)、红绿色调指数a^(*)和黄蓝色调指数b^(*)进行测试,分析了织物组织和纬密对热致变色涤纶长丝机织物变色效果的影响及其显著性。研究结果表明:纬密和织物组织对热致变色涤纶长丝机织物的变色效果有一定影响,但并不显著;随着织物纬密减小,明度略有升高,色相略有减弱;颜色变化由快到慢的顺序基本为缎纹、斜纹、平纹。研究结果对热致变色纤维在机织产品上的设计和应用具有一定的指导作用。Nine kinds of woven fabrics with plain weave,twill weave and satin weave and different density are designed and woven by using polyester thermochromic filament(rose red to white)as warp and weft.The shade L^(*),red-green hue index a^(*)and yellow-blue hue index b^(*)of the dyed fabrics are tested respectively.The influence of fabric weave and weft density on the color change of thermochromic polyester filament woven fabrics and its significance are analyzed.The results show that weft density and fabric structures have a certain influence on the color change for thermochromic polyester filament woven fabric,but its impact is not significant.With the decrease of weft density,the lightness slightly increases and the hue slightly decreases.The order of the color change from fast to slow in the elementary structures is satin,twill,and plain.These results have a certain guiding role for the design and application of thermochromic fibers in woven products.

关 键 词：涤纶 机织物 织物组织 纬密 变色效果 

分 类 号：TS157[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]