男西装两片袖纸样放缩方法设计  

Design of Pattern Grading Method of Two-piece Sleeve for Men's Suit

作　　者：庹武[1] 郝潇潇 王哓玉 王明飞 刘永亮 郭鑫 TUO Wu;HAO Xiao-xiao;WANG Xiao-yu;WANG Ming-fei;LIU Yong-liang;GUO Xin(Fashion Institute,Zhongyuan University of Technology,Zhengzhou 451191,China;Henan Province Shuncai Industrial Co.,Ltd.,Zhengzhou 450000,China)

机构地区：[1]中原工学院服装学院,河南郑州451191 [2]河南省舜彩实业有限公司,河南郑州450000

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2021年第5期52-56,共5页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：河南省高等学校重点科研项目(19A540004)。

摘　　要：针对服装纸样放缩问题,从纸样放缩方法、坐标选择方式、档差(包括成品规格档差和细部档差)分配方式等分块进行分析研究,利用服装CAD对西装两片袖放缩,分析不同纸样放缩方法的优缺点,检验放缩后的纸样,总结归纳出最优的坐标方式和档差分配方案以及西装纸样放缩的变化规律,进一步深化和完善服装纸样放缩的方法,达到提高效率和质量的目的。In view of the problem of clothing pattern grading, the grading method, coordinate selection method, difference(including the finished product specification difference and detailed difference) distribution method and other blocks were analyzed and researched. The grading of two sleeves of the suit were carried out by the use of clothing CAD. The advantages and disadvantages of the pattern grading method were analyzed. The pattern after grading was examined. The optimal coordinate method, the differential distribution scheme, as well as the change law of the suit pattern grading were summarized, to deepen and perfect the method of pattern grading of clothing, and improve efficiency and quality.

关 键 词：服装结构 纸样放缩 男西装 两片袖 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]