真丝类织物悬垂性综合评价  

Comprehensive evaluation of drapability of real silk fabrics

作　　者：祝杭琪 王雪琴[1] ZHU Hangqi;WANG Xueqin(College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第6期25-29,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(22075252);浙江省自然科学基金项目(LQ19C090009)。

摘　　要：当代的真丝类面料有很多的品种,其风格特征也有很多的可能性,不只是世人印象中的轻薄和飘逸。为探索真丝类织物的不同悬垂性特征,从经典品种及市场上较受欢迎的新品种中,选取78块不同品类与规格的真丝类织物进行悬垂性测试。由悬垂指标的聚类分析可得出,真丝类织物可以分为五类。对每一类下的面料进行悬垂指标与悬垂图像的讨论,可以发现每一类面料的悬垂性和悬垂形态有一定的相似性,而五类间的面料悬垂性和悬垂形态各有不同。不同悬垂形态的真丝类织物在满足不同的服装及纺织品造型需求的同时,也是服装及纺织品虚拟仿真时的关键点之一。Real silk fabrics have many varieties,and many possibilities for their style characteristics,not just the common impression of light,thin and elegant that it has left to the world.In order to explore different drapabilities of real silk fabrics,78 pieces of real silk fabrics of different categories and specifications were selected from classic varieties and popular new varieties in the market for drapability test.According to a cluster analysis of drapability indexes,real silk fabrics can be divided into five categories.Through a discussion of drapability indexes and draping images of fabrics under each category,it can be found that the drapability and draping form of fabrics under each category were somewhat similar,while the drapability and draping form of fabrics were different across five categories.Real silk fabrics with different draping forms not only meet the modeling needs of different clothing and textiles,but also are one of the key points in virtual simulation of clothing and textiles.

关 键 词：真丝织物 悬垂性 聚类分析 悬垂形态 丝绸品种 织物风格 

分 类 号：TS941.42[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS101.923