黎平县苗侗民族服饰刺绣绣种意象认知贴合度分档  

Classification of fit degrees between images and embroidery varietiesof Miao-Dong ethnic costumes in Liping county

作　　者：吴艳华 林丽[1,2] 杨勤[1] 阳明庆[1] 郭主恩 李汶潼 WU Yanhua;LIN Li;YANG Qin;YANG Mingqing;GUO Zhuen;LI Wentong(School of Mechanical Engineering,Ministry of Education,Guizhou University,Guiyang 550025,China;Key Laboratory of Advanced Manufacturing Technology,Ministry of Education,Guizhou University,Guiyang 550025,China)

机构地区：[1]贵州大学机械工程学院,贵阳550025 [2]贵州大学现代制造技术教育部重点实验室,贵阳550025

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第6期70-75,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(51865003);贵州省科技计划资助项目(黔科合平台人才〔2018〕5781)。

摘　　要：针对传统服饰体验设计评价中缺乏刺绣的感性意象研究,文章提出一种黎平县苗侗民族服饰刺绣绣种意象贴合度分档方法。首先,收集代表性刺绣品种制作实物,基于KE和AB式视触觉评价模式划分绣种的意象群并提取代表性意象词对,进而采集主观评价数据;其次,使用GAR法计算绣种意象评价值与参考值之间的关联度,剖析绣种意象组成方式;接着,融合RSR法构建分档回归方程,得到绣种意象贴合度分档结果;最后,综合结果判别绣种的意象趋势及状态,以辅助设计师根据目标意象运用不同刺绣品种进行服饰设计和商家向消费者推荐符合其意象需求的刺绣产品。In view of the current situation of a lack of research on the perceptual images of embroidery in the evaluation of traditional costume experience design,this paper proposes a method to classify fit degrees between images and embroidery varieties of Miao-Dong ethnic costumes in Liping county.First of all,representative embroidery varieties were collected to make physical objects,the image groups of embroidery varieties were divided according to KE and AB visual and tactile evaluation modes,representative image word pairs were extracted,and then subjective evaluation data were collected.Secondly,the GAR method was used to calculate the correlation between the evaluation value of embroidery image and the reference value,and the composition method of embroidery images was analyzed.After that,the RSR method was used to construct a regression equation of classification,and the classification results of the fit degrees between images and embroidery varieties were obtained.Finally,the image trend and status of embroidery varieties were judged by synthesizing the results,so as to assist the designer to use different embroidery varieties to design costumes and according to the target image and also assist the merchants to recommend embroidery products to consumers which satisfy their image requirements.

关 键 词：GRA-RSR法 感性工学 民族服饰刺绣 绣种意象 贴近度 刺绣品种 

分 类 号：TS101.91[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] J523.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]