狮锦争妍:丝绸之路织锦技艺交融与发展  

The lion brocade:integration and development of brocade weaving techniques along the Silk Road

作　　者：孙志芹[1] 李细珍 李昕凯 SUN Zhiqin;LI Xizhen;LI Xinkai(Department of Design Art,Yancheng Institute of Technology,Yancheng 224051,China)

机构地区：[1]盐城工学院设计艺术学院,江苏盐城214051

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第6期89-95,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部规划基金项目(20YJA760069)。

摘　　要：古代织锦中“狮子纹”具有明显的时代性与地域特征,从经锦狮纹到纬锦狮纹的流行不仅是中西织锦货物贸易的关系,也是丝绸之路上多元文化相互渗透的难得实例。文章以北朝至唐时期遗存狮纹锦为研究对象,对其进行类型学、纺织科技学、艺术考古学等方面再解读,从狮纹锦的艺术特征和织造特点两方面,探析狮纹锦本土化演绎历程。研究认为:起于丝路贸易模仿的狮纹锦,并不是被动的吸收,而是在模仿中不断改进织锦技术,最终形成具有本土文化属性的狮纹锦。本土狮纹锦的成因与社会文化背景、织工自身的知识体系关系紧密。The"lion pattern"in ancient brocade has obvious epochal and regional characteristics.The popularity of lion patterns from warp brocade to weft brocade is not only about the trade relationship between Chinese and Western brocade goods,but also provides a rare example for the mutual infiltration among diversified cultures along the Silk Road.In this paper,the surviving lion pattern brocade from the Northern dynasties to the Tang dynasty is taken as the research object,and it re-interpreted from such aspects as typology,textile technology,art archaeology.From the artistic characteristics and weaving characteristics of lion pattern brocade,the localization process of lion pattern brocade is explored.Our research shows that the lion pattern brocade originated from the imitation during the Silk Road trade.The brocade weaving technique is not assimilated passively,but constantly improved during imitation and finally forms the lion pattern brocade with local cultural attributes.The origin of local lion brocade is closely related to the social and cultural background,as well as knowledge system of weavers themselves.

关 键 词：狮纹锦 组织结构 织制特点 经锦 纬锦 丝绸之路 丝路贸易 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K876.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]