明朝与日本勘合贸易中的织金锦研究  

A study of gold brocade in the tributary trade between Ming dynasty and Japan

作　　者：周佳 赵丰[1,2] ZHOU Jia;ZHAO Feng(School of Fashion and Design College,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第6期96-102,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232019G-08)。

摘　　要：明朝在与日本的勘合贸易中,赏赐了许多织金锦,这些织金在日本广受喜爱并以名物裂金襕的形式保存下来,但学界少有人将二者联系起来。文章以勘合贸易中的重要文献《大明别幅并两国勘合》中的织金锦信息为基础,采用文献研究法、对比研究法,综合文献图像和名物裂金襕实物等多重证据对其中的织金锦进行研究,旨在为探讨中日丝绸文化交流作出贡献。研究结果显示,其中的织金胸背与蒙元制相似,织金与浑织金为同类织物即用片金线显纹的织物,有全越与半越、地络与别络等方式。在织金图案的选择上,明朝政府会根据日本国情和文化的特殊性作出武官补纹和梧桐叶纹等的针对性给赐。During the tributary trade with Japan,the Ming dynasty rewarded many gold brocades.These gold brocades were very popular in Japan and preserved in the form of the Kinran of Meibutsugire,but few scholars have made connection between the two.Based on the information about gold brocade in the important document The Great Ming Scroll and Tributary Trade between Two Countries in the tributary trade,this paper analyzes gold brocade in them,through literature review,comparative study and multiple evidence,such as intergrated document images and Kinran of Meibutsugire with a view to discuss silk cultural exchanges between Japan and China.The research findings show that the gold brocade patterns in front of the chest and behind the back are similar to the style in the Mongolian Yuan dynasty.Gold brocade and gold-doped brocade are similar fabrics that show patterns with gold threads.There are full-cross and semi-cross,weft-knitting and warp-knitting,etc.Regarding the choice of patterns of gold brocade,the Ming government tended to give targeted rewards according to the national conditions and particular culture of Japan,such as square patterns on the military officers’court dresses and phoenix leaf patterns.

关 键 词：明朝 日本 勘合贸易 织金锦 金襕 丝绸交流 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]