碱丝光对BTCA整理棉织物防皱性能的影响  

Effects of alkaline mercerization on the anti-wrinkle properties of cotton fabric treated with BTCA

作　　者：蔡子静 阎克路[1] 朱泉 纪柏林 CAI Zijing;YAN Kelu;ZHU Quan;JI Bolin(National Engineering Research Center for Dyeing and Finishing of Textiles,College of Chemistry,Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学化学化工与生物工程学院,国家染整工程技术研究中心,上海201620

出　　处：《印染》2021年第6期46-50,共5页China Dyeing and Finishing

基　　金：国家自然科学基金青年科学基金(51803025);中央高校基本科研业务费(2232020D-21)。

摘　　要：为阐明棉纤维无定形区结构变化与防皱性能的构效关系,以1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸(BTCA)作整理剂,对经过不同碱丝光处理的棉织物进行防皱整理。结果表明:碱丝光使棉纤维结晶度指数(CI)降低,当丝光时间大于30s后,CI变化趋于平缓;纤维横截面由腰子形变为圆形,纱线整体均匀度提高。与未碱丝光处理织物相比,碱丝光处理的织物经BTCA整理后,酯键交联程度较高,撕破强力提高较大。这证明棉纤维的防皱性能与无定形区密切相关,无定形区比例、均匀度和取向度的适当提高有利于克服BTCA整理织物的强力损失。当NaOH质量浓度为200 g/L,碱丝光时间为20s时,整理织物折皱回复角达到252.0°,撕破强力保留率为69.30%。In order to clarify the structure-activity relationship between the structure change of the amorphous region of cotton fiber and its crease resistance,1,2,3,4-butane tetracarboxylic acid(BTCA)is used as finishing agent to the finish of cotton fabric with different alkali mercerization treatments.The results show that the crys⁃tallinity index(CI)of cotton fiber decreases after alkali mercerization,and the change of CI tends to be gentle when mercerization time is more than 30 s.The cross section of fiber is changed from waist to circle,and the yarn uniformity is improved.Compared with the fabric without alkali mercerizing,the alkali mercerized fabric af⁃ter BTCA treatment has higher crosslinking degree of ester bond and higher tearing strength.It is proved that the crease resistance of cotton fiber is closely related to the amorphous zone,and the appropriate increase of the proportion,uniformity and orientation of the amorphous zone is beneficial to overcome the strength loss of BTCA finished fabric.When the NaOH concentration is 200 g/L and the alkali mercerization time is 20 s,the crease recovery angle of the finished fabric reaches 252.0°,the retention rate of tearing strength is 69.30%.

关 键 词：丝光 防皱性能 构效关系 BTCA 棉织物 

分 类 号：TS195.511[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]