原色与脱色牦牛绒精梳纯纺纱工艺研究  

Process design of combed yarn from original and discolored yak hair

作　　者：秦潇璇[1,2] 瞿立新 谢春萍 QIN Xiaoxuan;QU Lixin;XIE Chunping(Institute of Film and Television, Wuxi City College of Vocational Technology, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214000, China;College of Textile Science and Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China;Wuxi Vocational College of Science and Technology, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214028, China)

机构地区：[1]无锡城市职业技术学院影视学院,江苏无锡214000 [2]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [3]无锡科技职业学院,江苏无锡214028

出　　处：《纺织学报》2021年第6期78-84,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：江苏省教育科学“十三五”规划重点资助课题(B-a/2018/03/12);江苏省高校哲学社会科学研究基金项目(2018SJA0890,2020SJDA138)。

摘　　要：针对牦牛绒纤维主体长度短、长度离散度大、含有大量粗死毛等导致无法使用现有毛精纺设备实现精梳制条的问题,通过采用便捷喂毛、高效预梳、低损伤分梳、落物充分回收装置组成高效分梳机构,将卷曲、块状绒团拉伸为基本伸直的单纤维状。在细纱工序,分别采用环锭纺、网格圈紧密纺、全聚纺纺制原色和脱色牦牛绒单纱和赛络纱,并对成纱质量进行测试分析。结果表明:16.7 tex牦牛绒纯纺纱采用环锭纺时由于断头多而导致无法正常纺纱;与网格圈紧密纺相比,全聚纺所纺原色牦牛绒纱的强伸性和条干有所改善,但毛羽质量略差;与原色牦牛绒相比,脱色牦牛绒纯纺纱的综合性能有所下降,尤其是成纱强力有所降低;与网格圈型紧密纺相比,全聚纺由于实现了对牵伸后的纤维须条的平行集聚,更有利于对脱色后强力较低的牦牛绒纤维实现更加柔性、平稳的集聚加工。At present,yak hair fiber is difficult for yarn spinning especially for pure combed yarn spinning due to its features,including short length,and large variation in fiber length.There is also lots of coarse wool in the yak cashmere,which makes it impossible for the combed slivers of the yak hair to be produced in the wool worsted equipments.This paper introduced an efficient carding system,including a convenient fiber feeding device,an efficient preparing device,a low damage carding device,and a full dropping-recovery device.By using the system,the crimp and lumpy hair was stretched into straight individual fibers.In creating the yarns,the ring spinning,lattice apron compact spinning,and roller-type compact spinning were used form the original and discolored yak hair combed single yarns and siro spun yarns,and the qualities of spun yarns were measured and analyzed for comparison.The results show that the ring spinning method cannot be used for 16.7 tex spun yarn due to high yarn breakage.Comparing with quality of yarn produced using lattice apron compact spinning,the strength and elongation,and evenness of the original yak hair yarn spun created using roller-type compact spinning are improved,but with higher rate of hairiness.Comparing with the original yak hair yarn,the discolored yak hair yarn demonstrates lower comprehensive properties,especially the yarn strength.Comparing with lattice apron compact spinning,the roller-type compact spinning is more suitable for discolored yak hair yarn spinning due to the flexible and stable parallel condensing process.

关 键 词：牦牛绒 精准分离 紧密纺 分梳 精梳纱 

分 类 号：TS101[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]