液氨处理对锦纶/棉混纺织物性能的影响  

Influence of liquid ammonia treatment on properties of polyamide/cotton blended fabrics

作　　者：张华 张杰 高燕 ZHANG Hua;ZHANG Jie;GAO Yan(Institute of Quartermaster Engineering & Technology, Institute of Engineering, Academy of Military Science, PLA, Beijing 100088, China;Beijing BW Techtextile Co., Ltd., Beijing 100043, China;United Testing Services (Beijing) Co., Ltd.,/CNTAC Testing Center, Beijing 100025, China)

机构地区：[1]军事科学院系统工程研究院军需工程技术研究所,北京100088 [2]北京邦维高科特种纺织品有限责任公司,北京100043 [3]中纺协(北京)检验技术服务有限公司/中国纺织工业联合会检测中心,北京100025

出　　处：《纺织学报》2021年第6期128-132,共5页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：锦纶/棉混纺织物存在易折皱外观不平整的问题,制约了其在高档服装上的应用。为此,以锦纶/棉混纺织物为研究对象,在坯布预处理后染整前对其进行液氨处理,研究了液氨处理对织物拉伸强力、撕破强力、折皱回复角及表面性能的影响。通过平滑感、温暖感及柔软感3个定量指标,评价液氨处理前后锦/棉混纺织物的风格、手感变化情况。结果表明:液氨整理可以提升锦/棉织物的拉伸强力及撕破强力,处理后织物的折皱回复角从218°提升至252.3°,粗糙度波长与振幅之比从50.46降低至44.87,表明液氨处理后织物的抗皱性和平滑感均得到了明显改善;尽管液氨处理未明显改善织物的柔软感,但处理织物的热导率较未处理织物仍有一定程度降低,致使织物接触温暖感有所提升。Polyamide/cotton blended fabrics prone to wrinkles and uneven appearance limiting their applications in high-quality clothing.Aiming at such problems,a polyamide/cotton blended fabric was taken as the research object,and the greige was treated with liquid ammonia after pretreatment and before dyeing and finishing.The effect of the liquid ammonia treatment on the tensile strength,tear strength,wrinkle recovery and surface properties were evaluated.Three quantitative indicators,i.e.smoothness,warmth and softness,were used to evaluate handle of the polyamide/cotton blended fabric samples before and after liquid ammonia treatment.The results show that the liquid ammonia finishing can increase both the tensile strength and tear strength of the polyamide/cotton blended fabric.The wrinkle recovery angle of the fabrics treated with liquid ammonia increased from 218°to 252.3°,and the ratio of roughness wavelength-to-amplitude decreased from 50.46 to 44.87,which indicates that the crease resistance and smoothness of the fabrics treated with liquid ammonia were significantly improved.Although liquid ammonia did not significantly improve the softness of the fabric,the thermal conductivity of the treated fabric was lower than that of the untreated fabric to a certain extent,resulting in the improvement of the contact warmth of the fabric.

关 键 词：液氨处理 锦纶/棉织物 表面性能 折皱回复角 织物手感 

分 类 号：TS195.513[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]