从日本艺伎服饰探究中日服饰文化差异  

Exploring the Cultural Differences in Jewelry between China and Japan from Japanese Geisha Costumes

作　　者：张宇彤 ZHANG Yutong(School of Gemmology,China University of Geosciences(Beijing),Beijing 100083)

机构地区：[1]中国地质大学(北京)珠宝学院,北京100083

出　　处：《中国宝玉石》2021年第3期45-52,共8页China Gems & Jades

摘　　要：艺伎,是一种现代日本特有的、从江户时代传承至今的特殊职业。艺伎们穿着日本传统和服,在宴席弹奏三弦琴,表演歌舞小品,从妆容服饰到表演内容,无不遵循古制,让观众宛如回到三百多年前,给予他们如梦似幻脱离现实般的浪漫体验,所以艺伎和相扑、茶道一起,被称作日本传统文化活的载体。艺伎这一职业深深浸润着日本传统文化的色彩,铭刻着历史与文明的发展印记,从中可以寻找到日本的首饰文化发展的影子,看到传统与现代审美碰撞产生的火花,找寻出与我国相似又不同的首饰文化发展方向。作为亚洲首饰圈顶尖的国家之一,日本首饰文化的发展有许多值得我们借鉴的地方,本文从日本艺伎服饰这一切入点,探究中日服饰文化差异,从而对我国现代的首饰设计提供借鉴,寻找新的发展方向。Geisha is a special profession unique to modern Japan that has been passed down from the Edo period to the present day.They wore traditional Japanese kimonos,played shamisen at the banquet,and performed song and dance sketches.From makeup and costumes to performance content,they all followed the ancient system,making the audience feel like going back to more than three hundred years ago,giving them dreamlike and romantic experience.So geisha,together with sumo and tea ceremony,is called the carrier of traditional Japanese culture.Geisha profession deeply infiltrating the color of traditional Japanese culture,engraved with the imprint of history and the development of civilization,from which we can find the imprint of jewelry and cultural development in Japan,find a spark of traditional and modern aesthetic produced by the collision,and find the development direction of jewelry culture in Japan is similar but different from that of our country.As one of the top countries in the Asian jewelry circle,the development of Japanese jewelry culture has many things that we can learn from.This article studies the differences between Chinese and Japanese jewelry cultures based on Japanese geisha costumes,so as to provide reference for my country's modern jewelry design,looking for a new direction of development.

关 键 词：中日首饰文化 艺伎 珠宝首饰设计 

分 类 号：J53[艺术—艺术设计]