柔性牛仔面料的设计与生产  

Design and Production of Flexible Denim Fabric

作　　者：黄敏 汪康康 吴拓明 权震震 景慎全 HUANG Min;WANG Kangkang;WU Tuoming;QUAN Zhenzhen;JING Shenquan(Zhejiang Xinlan Textile Co.,Ltd.,Lanxi,321100,China;Donghua University,Shanghai,201620,China;China Cotton Textile Association,Beijing,100027,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江鑫兰纺织有限公司,浙江兰溪321100 [2]东华大学,上海201620 [3]中国棉纺织行业协会,北京100027

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2021年第7期60-62,共3页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：探讨柔性牛仔面料的设计方法。设计了6种试样,并测试其性能。以莱赛尔织物为例,介绍了准备工序、织造工序和退浆整理工序的工艺要点。测试分析了各织物的悬垂系数和柔软度。结果表明:采用莱赛尔纱和松式退浆整理的织物悬垂系数和柔软度最佳。认为:采用莱赛尔纱和松式退浆整理可以获得柔软性能较佳的牛仔面料。Design method of flexible denim fabric was discussed.Six kinds of samples were designed and their properties were tested.Lyocell fabric was taken as an example,the key points of the preparation process,weaving process and desizing finishing process were introduced.Drape coefficient and softness of each fabric were tested and analyzed.The results showed that the fabric with lyocell yarn and loose desizing finishing had the best drape coefficient and softness.It is considered that through using lyocell yarn and loose desizing finishing,denim fabric with better softness could be obtained.

关 键 词：莱赛尔 线密度 牛仔面料 剑杆织机 退浆整理 柔软度 悬垂系数 

分 类 号：TS106.52[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]