漆大姑对蚕丝纤维的染色及功能改性  

Dyeing and function modification of silk fabric with eriocarpous glochidion

作　　者：曹红梅[1,2] 胡志良 张茜茜 CAO Hongmei;HU Zhiliang;ZHANG Xixi(School of Textile,Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textileand Garment,Changzhou 213164,China;Changzhou Key Laboratory of Eco-Textile Technology,Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textileand Garment,Changzhou 213164,China;Changzhou Tintin Textile Co.,Ltd.,Changzhou 213163,China)

机构地区：[1]常州纺织服装职业技术学院纺织学院,江苏常州213164 [2]常州纺织服装职业技术学院常州市生态纺织技术重点实验室,江苏常州213164 [3]常州丁丁纺织科技有限公司,江苏常州213163

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第7期20-26,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：江苏高校“青蓝工程”中青年学术带头人培养对象项目(苏教师函〔2021〕11号);常州纺织服装职业技术学院教师企业实践锻炼项目(常纺院人字〔2019〕19号);常州纺织服装职业技术学院教学创新团队项目(常纺院教字〔2019〕10号)。

摘　　要：蚕丝是一种高档天然蛋白质纤维,具有典雅华贵的外观和优异的服用性能,但是其光稳定性差、抗紫外和抗菌等性能差。漆大姑具有良好的生态相容性和使用安全性,作为中药具有消炎、止痒等功效。文章探索运用漆大姑提取液对蚕丝纤维进行染色,在赋予蚕丝织物颜色的同时赋予其功能性,同时研究了漆大姑对蚕丝织物的直接染色及前媒染染色工艺。实验结果显示,漆大姑能够赋予直接染色蚕丝织物良好的抗紫外、抗氧化、抗菌等功能,达到对蚕丝织物染色和功能整理的双重目的;运用四种金属媒染剂对蚕丝织物前媒染后再染色,可以提高蚕丝织物的表面得色量,金属离子不同对染色色光的影响有所差异,媒染有利于提高染色色牢度。前媒染后再染色蚕丝织物的抗紫外、抗氧化、抗菌功能性与直接染色的蚕丝织物相比有所变化。Silk is a high-grade natural protein fiber with an elegant and luxurious appearance and outstanding wearability,but the poor light stability,UV resistance and antibacterial properties hinder its further application.As a traditional Chinese medicine,eriocarpous glochidion possesses great biocompatibility,use safety,anti-inflammatory and antipruritic effects.In this paper,eriocarpous glochidion was used to dye the silk fiber.In the process,the silk fiver was given both colors and functionality.In addition,the direct dyeing process and pre-mordant dyeing process of eriocarpous glochidion on silk fabrics were explored.The results showed that,eriocarpous glochidion significantly enhanced the anti-ultraviolet,antioxidant and antibacterial properties of dyed silk fabrics,achieving double purposes of silk dyeing and functional finishing.After the silk fabrics were dyed with four kinds of metal mordant,the surface color yield was improved significantly.Furthermore,various metal ions showed different effect for shade,and mordant dyeing was able to enhance the color fastness.The anti-ultraviolet,antioxidant and antibacterial functions of silk fabrics dyed after pre-mordant process changed,compared with the silk fabric dyed directly.

关 键 词：天然染料 漆大姑 蚕丝纤维 染色性能 功能性 

分 类 号：TS190.644[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]