化妆品植物原料(Ⅳ)——抑制黑色素合成信号通路的植物美白原料的研究与开发  

Botanical cosmetic ingredient(Ⅳ)Research and development of skin whitening ingredients from plant extracts with melanogenesis signaling pathway inhibiting effect

作　　者：任倩倩 吴华[1,2] 金建明[1,2] Qianqian Ren;Hua Wu;Jianming Jin(College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Institute of Cosmetic Regulatory Science,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China)

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学化学与材料工程学院,北京100048 [2]北京工商大学化妆品监管科学研究院,北京100048

出　　处：《日用化学工业》2021年第7期590-597,共8页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(31971382)。

摘　　要：人类的皮肤和头发的颜色取决于黑色素的数量、质量和分布。黑色素在保护皮肤免受各种环境的有害影响方面发挥巨大的作用。而黑色素过量合成会导致严重的皮肤问题。因此,研究黑色素生物合成的信号通路调控以及探究相关的经信号通路抑制黑色素合成的植物提取物具有非常重要的意义。本文综述了调控黑色素生物合成的信号通路和调控因子,包括α-MSH诱导的信号通路、PI3K/Akt信号通路、SCF/c-kit介导的MAPK信号通路、Wnt/β-catenin信号通路、NO/cGMP信号通路、以及细胞因子、转录因子PAX3和肝X受体。重点介绍通过调控各种信号通路抑制黑色素合成的植物提取物。这些植物提取物虽然通过不同的信号通路进行调控,但大多下调一种整合上游信号通路和调控下游基因的转录因子MITF的表达,进而降低酪氨酸酶(TYR)的表达,抑制细胞内黑色素的生物合成。Human skin and hair color relies on the quantity,quality,and distribution of melanin.Melanin plays a monumental role in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of various environments.However,an excessive production of melanin causes serious dermatological problems.Hence,it is of great significance to study the regulation of melanogenesis signaling pathway and to explore the related plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis through these signaling pathways.This paper reviews the signaling pathways and regulatory factors that control melanin biosynthetic pathway,includingα-MSH-induced signaling pathway,PI3 K/Akt signaling pathway,SCF/c-kit-mediated MAPK signaling pathway,Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathway,NO-cGMP signaling pathway,and cytokines,transcription factor PAX3 and liver X-receptors.This paper focuses on plant extracts that inhibit melanin synthesis by regulating various signaling pathways.Although these plant extracts regulate different signaling pathways,most of them down-regulate the expression of MITF,a transcription factor that integrates upstream signaling pathways and regulates downstream genes,thereby reducing the expression of tyrosinase(TYR)and inhibiting the biosynthesis of melanin in cells.We hope this paper can provide information for better application of plant extracts in whitening cosmetics.

关 键 词：植物提取物 信号通路 黑色素生物合成 美白化妆品 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]