横编仿皮毛羊绒服装的设计与开发  

Design and Development of Bionic Flat-knitting Garment Based on Cashmere Yarn

作　　者：黄娴 丛启霞 赵博宇 丛洪莲 Huang Xian;Cong Qixia;Zhao Boyu;Cong Honglian(Wuxi Pacific Knitting Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214037,China;Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]无锡太平针织有限公司,江苏无锡214037 [2]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2021年第7期73-76,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：为了满足人们对动物长绒纤维舒适度的追求,同时适应当代保护野生动物的理念,文中对38.46 tex×2的100%粗纺羊绒纱线进行纱线结构改造,形成仿生型长绒羊绒纱线。并以改造前后的羊绒纱线为原料,结合针织工艺,在机号为7针/25.4 mm的Stoll双针床电脑横机上进行冬季保暖V领开衫的设计开发。在对羊绒成衣进行一系列特殊后处理后,最终获得具有长毛绒的仿生型羊绒针织开衫,其手感柔软滑糯,织物丰满不厚重。该仿生结构设计为冬季保暖服装的开发提供思路,符合现代社会对可持续发展的要求。This paper uses 38.46×2 100% cashmere yarn to transform the yarn structure for forming a bionic long-staple cashmere yarn. In order to satisfy people’s pursuit of the comfort of animal long-staple fibers and adapt to the contemporary concept of protecting wild animals, the cashmere yarn is used to develop a V-neck cardigan that keeps warm in winter on a Stoll double needle-bed computerized flat knitting machine of gauge 7. After a series of special post-treatments on cashmere garment, a bionic cashmere knitted cardigan with long fluff is finally obtained. The bionic structural design of the garment provides a new idea for the development of winter warm clothing, which also meets the requirements of modern society for sustainable development.

关 键 词：羊绒 仿生 长毛绒 电脑横机 针织开衫 保暖服装 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]