悬挂穿孔法测试织物弯曲悬垂性  

Measurement of fabric bending and draping properties by hanging&perforating method

作　　者：陈文苗 刘成霞[1,2,3] CHEN Wenmiao;LIU Chengxia(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Province Engineering Laboratory of Clothing Digital Technology,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Products Design Digital Technology,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装数字化技术浙江省工程实验室,杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化和旅游部重点实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第8期40-46,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY20E050017)。

摘　　要：为探究同时测试织物弯曲性和悬垂性的方法,文章以24块常见机织物为研究对象,分别用斜面悬臂梁法和圆台法测试抗弯刚度和悬垂系数,之后自行设计悬挂穿孔法测试装置并进行实验,提取得到四项特征指标:侧轮廓面积、底轮廓面积、载荷峰差值、峰值膨胀角。相关分析和回归分析的结果表明:悬挂穿孔法可以同时测量织物弯曲性和悬垂性,且四项特征指标都与抗弯刚度、悬垂系数具有高度相关性,得到的两个回归方程可用于预测织物整体的抗弯刚度和悬垂系数。悬挂穿孔法只用一块试样就能综合表达织物整体的弯曲悬垂性,既节约测试时间,又节省测试面料。To investigate fabric bending and draping properties,as well as relevant measurement methods,24 common woven fabric were selected as the research object.Then,the bending rigidity and draping coefficient were tested using method of cantilever beam on bevel and circular table.Next,a hanging&perforating testing device was designed for the experiment.As a result,four indexes were extracted:lateral outline area,bottom outline basal area,the difference of load peak value with original value,the flare angle with a peak value.Results of correlation analysis and regression analysis indicate that hanging&perforating method can be used to test fabric bending and draping properties simultaneously.And the four indexes are highly correlated with bending rigidity and draping coefficient.Finally,two regression equations obtained can be used to predict the fabric overall bending rigidity and draping coefficient.The hanging&perforating method can comprehensively reflect fabric overall bending and draping properties only by means of a fabric sample.It can save both the testing time and the testing fabric.

关 键 词：织物 弯曲性悬垂性 抗弯刚度 悬垂系数 悬挂穿孔法 

分 类 号：TS101.923[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]