从“后中不破缝”解读中山装  

Interpretation of Chinese tunic suits from the perspective of "no broken stich in the back part"

作　　者：葛英颖[1] 刘广昌 GE Yingying;LIU Guangchang(School of Art and Design,Changchun University of Technology,Changchun 130000,China)

机构地区：[1]长春工业大学艺术设计学院,长春130000

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第8期97-102,共6页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：中山装作为中国传统服饰文化传承与创新的典范,在传播中华民族精神中充分发挥了服装作为显性文化标识的作用,体现了其中正、坚韧、庄重的中国传统文化精神,并承载着特殊的时代意义。文章以中山装"后中不破缝"为切入点,与西装后身结构进行差异性比较,通过对中山装的结构制图、缝制工艺要点、文化内涵及审美价值四个方面的研究分析,探究了中山装后背结构设计的独特审美价值和文化蕴含,提出了中山装"后中不破缝"之时代意义与设计理念,以此引发社会各界人士对于中山装的传承和创新之再思考,为后续中山装相关研究提供新的思路。As a model of the inheritance and innovation of traditional Chinese costume culture,Chinese tunic suits have given full play to the role of clothing as an explicit cultural sign in disseminating Chinese national spirit,manifested the Chinese traditional cultural spirit of righteousness,tenacity and tenacity,and carried a special time significance.Starting from the"no broken stich in the back part"of Chinese tunic suits,this paper compares the difference with the back part of the suit.Through the research and analysis of the structure drawing,the key points of the sewing process,the cultural connotation and the aesthetic value of Chinese tunic suits,this paper explores the unique aesthetic value and cultural connotation of structure design of its back part,proposes the era significance and design concept of"no broken stich in the back part"of Chinese tunic suits,thus provoking people from all walks of life to rethink the inheritance and innovation of Chinese tunic suits,in hope of providing new thoughts for subsequent research on Chinese tunic suits.

关 键 词：中山装 西装 学生装 军便装 军装 后背结构 结构制图 缝制工艺 

分 类 号：TS941.711[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]