羊毛/兔绒/羊绒提花面料工艺设计  

Process design of wool/rabbit hair/cashmere jacquard fabric

作　　者：康乐 王利平[1] 聂文山 周浩秋 KANG Le;WANG Liping;NIE Wenshan;ZHOU Haoqiu(College of Textile and Light Industry,Inner Mongolia University of Technology,Hohhot,Inner Mongolia 010051,China;Inner Mongolia King Deer Cashmere Company Limited,Baotou,Inner Mongolia 014040,China)

机构地区：[1]内蒙古工业大学轻工与纺织学院,内蒙古呼和浩特010051 [2]内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司,内蒙古包头014040

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2021年第8期6-9,共4页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为充分发挥羊毛纤维吸湿保暖、兔绒纤维蓬松滑糯、羊绒纤维弹性柔软的性能,开发一种羊毛/兔绒/羊绒提花面料。针对兔绒纤维可纺性差的问题,采用羊毛、兔绒、羊绒散纤维混纺方法,提升纤维抱合力。通过散毛染色、和毛、梳毛、细纱、络筒、蒸纱等工艺,设计纺纱上机参数,制得羊毛/兔绒/羊绒60/25/15混纺纱线。以1/3破斜纹纬二重组织为基础组织,设计织造工艺,织制正反面双色图案提花织物。后通过洗缩呢、起毛、蒸呢等方法,制得蓬松饱满,手感滑糯的羊毛/兔绒/羊绒提花面料,对纺织产品的设计开发具有参考意义。A wool/rabbit hair/cashmere jacquard fabric was developed in order to make full use of the moisture absorption and warmth of wool fiber,the fluffy and slippery of rabbit hair fiber and the elastic and soft properties of cashmere fiber.Aiming at the problem of poor spinnability of rabbit hair fiber,wool/rabbit hair/cashmere loose fiber blending method was adopted to improve fiber holding force.In this paper,wool/rabbit hair/cashmere 60/25/15 blended yarn was prepared by designing the parameters of spinning process in fiber dyeing,mixing,carding,spinning,spooling and steaming,etc.Based on the 1/3 broken twill weft double weave structure,the double-color pattern jacquard fabric was made.Finally,through shuffling,raising and steaming,awool/rabbit hair/cashmere jacquard fabric with fluffy and smooth hand feel was obtained.It has reference significance for the design and development of textile products.

关 键 词：兔绒 羊绒 羊毛 色纺 提花面料 

分 类 号：TS134.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]