连体服衣下间隙特征指标的确定及其在服装合体性评价中的应用  

Determination and application of air gap parameters in coverall fit analysis

作　　者：王诗潭 汪秀花[1] 王云仪[1,2] WANG Shitan;WANG Xiuhua;WANG Yunyi(College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《纺织学报》2021年第9期137-143,155,共8页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(2232021G-08);东华大学研究生创新基金项目(CUSF-DH-D-2020089)。

摘　　要：为量化表征连体服与人体的空间关系并构建服装合体性的客观评价指标,利用三维人体扫描仪对7种姿势下的裸态人体和着装人体进行扫描。通过三维图像分析确定了受姿势影响的关键部位,并提取了22个衣下间隙指标。以主观合体度评分为标准,确定了9个衣下间隙特征指标,并对不同姿势下特征指标的变化规律进行了探讨。利用因子分析构建了基于衣下间隙特征指标的服装合体性综合评价方程。结果表明:构建的服装合体性评价方程的计算结果排序与主观合体度的评价结果排序一致,具有理想的评估效果;同站姿相比,抬臂和弯腰姿势显著降低了衣下间隙大小,裆长差下降高达64%,且姿势越复杂下降程度越明显;胸背部、臀裆部和腿部是影响连体服合体性的重点区域。This study was to quantify the interaction between human body and coverall garments,aiming to create a quantitative index for clothing fit analysis.Naked and clothed human bodies were scanned with 7 postures using a 3-D body scanner.22 air gap parameters were extracted by 3-D scanned image analysis,from which 9 typical parameters were determined.An evaluation equation of clothing fit based on the typical air gap parameters was finally built using factor analysis.The results indicate that the newly proposed fit evaluation equation offers satisfactory evaluation effect.In addition,it is observed that arm lifting and bending postures would significantly reduce the air gap compared to the standing posture.In particular,the more complex the postures,the wider the range of influence;for instance for arm lifting and bending postures the crotch length decreased about 64%.Chest and back,hip and crotch and leg were identified as the primary regions influencing coverall fit.

关 键 词：衣下间隙 服装合体性 连体服 特征指标 三维扫描 

分 类 号：TS941.16[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]