基于Style 3D插肩袖旗袍衣袖的适配性研究  

Research on the Adaptability of Raglan Sleeve and Cheongsam Based on Style 3D

作　　者：杨奉娟 傅菊芬[2] YANG Feng-juan;FU Ju-fen(Textile and Clothing Engineering College of Soochow University,Soochow 215325,China;College of Applied Technology,Soochow University,Soochow 215325,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,苏州215325 [2]苏州大学应用技术学院,苏州215325

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2021年第2期19-26,共8页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

基　　金：江苏省特色专业建设项目。

摘　　要：将不同三维松量的旗袍衣身,在衣身结构不变的条件下,与不同参数的插肩袖进行衣袖适配性研究。首先用Style 3D仿真模拟试衣技术对样衣进行模拟试穿,并对模拟样衣进行衣袖适配性袖型静态造型的美观性评价;将3个衣身袖型美观性最优的6件样衣,再进行实际样衣的袖型静态造型评价验证和动态舒适性评价;最后综合分析袖型美观性与舒适性,通过层次分析法和综合评价,得出不同松量旗袍衣身与插肩袖衣袖适配性综合得分最优的袖型参数。研究结果表明:号型规格为160/84A,三维放量为2 cm的贴体旗袍衣身,与袖中线角度为48°的插肩袖适配性最好;三维放量为6 cm和10 cm的合体和较合体旗袍衣身,与袖中线角度为48°~56.5°的插肩袖适配性最好。The "cheongsam sleeve adaptability" was studied on the same size cheongsam with different three circumference looseness and different parameters of raglan sleeves in same structure. Firstly, sample clothes were tried onthrough Style3 D simulation technology, and the static modeling beauty of sleevewasevaluated.The evaluation and verification of static beauty and dynamic comfort evaluation of6 sampleclothes with the best static beautywere carried out. Through AHP and comprehensive evaluation, the best sleeve shape parameters of cheongsam and raglan sleeve were obtained.The results show that size of 160/84 A, the body-fitted cheongsam with three circumference loosenessof 2 cm, and the raglan sleeve with sleeve center line angle of 48° has the best adaptability. The fitting cheongsam with 6 cm and 10 cm three circumference, and the raglan sleeve with sleeve center line angle of 48 ° to 56.5° has the best adaptability.

关 键 词：旗袍 旗袍袖型 衣袖适配性 三维虚拟 

分 类 号：TS941.717[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]