全真丝半色织提花工艺设计实践  

Design Practice of Pure Silk Dyed Weft Jacquard Fabric

作　　者：韩雷 王佳丽[2] 肖露[2] HAN Lei;WANG Jia-li;XIAO Lu(Sichuan New Textile Co.,Ltd,Nanchong 637000,China;Sichuan Academy of Silk Sciences Co.,Ltd,Chengdu 610031,China)

机构地区：[1]四川依格尔纺织品有限公司,四川南充637000 [2]四川省丝绸科学研究院有限公司,四川成都610031

出　　处：《纺织科技进展》2021年第9期29-31,共3页Progress in Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：全真丝半色织提花产品以100%桑蚕丝为原料,采用浅经深纬的颜色组合,生经熟纬工艺,先半色织,后练白再染色后整理。研究探讨了半色织提花工艺染丝、织造、染整工序的生产难点和技术解决方案,筛选出比较合理的工艺参数和配方。生产出的全真丝半色织提花系列面料具有色彩丰富、花型立体、手感丰满等特点。The pure silk dyed weft jacquard fabric used 100%mulberry silk as raw material.The jacquard weaving process adopted light-colored raw warp and deep-colored dyed weft.Scouring and bleaching,dyeing and finishing of the jacquard fabric was adopted.The production difficulties and technical solutions of silk dyeing,weaving,dyeing and finishing were discussed.Based on the analysis of those parameters and formulas,the reasonable process parameters and preparation methods were determined.The characteristics of series jacquard fabrics included rich color,three dimensional pattern,comfortable hand feel and so on.

关 键 词：生经熟纬 半色织 活性染料 生物酶 

分 类 号：TS146[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]