《长安十二时辰》中的女性服饰元素  

On female costume elements of Tang Dynasty in“The longest day in Chang’an”

作　　者：唐素 李强 李斌 TANG Su;LI Qiang;LI Bin(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Editorial Department of 《Fashion Guide》,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学《服饰导刊》编辑部,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2021年第3期60-66,共7页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(2020BG03720)。

摘　　要：综合文献研究和历史考古相结合的方法,运用图像学原理分析《长安十二时辰》女装设计中的服饰元素与剧情表达。认为《长安十二时辰》中的女装设计充分运用唐代服饰元素,其款式、色彩与图案均基于历史;《长安十二时辰》中胡服和女着男装的刻画体现了盛唐时期女性的思想解放,展现了盛唐女性的自由与开放的时代形象;《长安十二时辰》女装设计在符合基本历史的同时结合现代美学,影视表达上兼顾文化内涵和时代审美。The method of combining literature research with historical archeology systematically and the principle of iconology was used to analyze the costume elements and plot expressions in the masculine ladies′costume design in“The longest day in Chang’an”.It is believed that the women′s clothing design in“The longest day in Chang’an”makes full use of Tang Dynasty clothing elements,and its styles,colors and patterns are all based on history;the depiction of Hu Fu and masculine women′s clothing reflects emancipation of women′s minds,which showed the image of women′s freedom and openness in the prime of the Tang Dynasty;the women′s clothing design combines modern aesthetics while conforming to the basic historical facts.The expression of film and television takes into account cultural connotation and aesthetics of the times.

关 键 词：《长安十二时辰》 影视服装 唐代女装 服饰文化 

分 类 号：TS942.8[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]