甲骨文中的服装起源辨析  

Analysis of the origin of clothing in oracle bone inscriptions

作　　者：刘安定 唐素[1] 李强 陶辉[1,4] LIU Anding;TANG Su;LI Qiang;TAO Hui(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;The Research Center for Textile Culture,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Editorial Department of 《Fashion Guide》,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Wuhan Textile and Apparel Digital Engineering Technology Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学纺织文化研究中心,武汉430073 [3]武汉纺织大学《服饰导刊》期刊社,武汉430073 [4]武汉纺织大学武汉纺织服装数字化工程技术研究中心,武汉430073

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2021年第3期67-73,80,共8页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(2020BG03720);湖北省服饰艺术与文化研究中心研究项目(2019HFG008)。

摘　　要：为探究甲骨文与中国服装起源的内在联系,结合文献学与考古学的相关发现,运用古汉字字源学解析甲骨文中的腰带、帽以及足服等与服装相关的汉字,得到服装起源于劳动需要的结论。即:中国传统服装的本源是原始皮质腰带,是一种携带工具的工具,甲骨文“(带)”字就是服装的初态,即皮质腰带加上前巾与后巾的形制;首服中的“帽”最初是原始人类捕猎时的重要工具或手段,随着原始人类生产技术的提高,出现具有象征意义的“冠”,到了新石器时代“冠”逐渐发展成为礼仪文化中的重要道具;足服的产生与原始战争有着必然的联系,其最终的成型受限于制革与纤维加工技术等因素的影响。提取甲骨文中的相关信息作为服装起源的基准点,可以合理地对中国传统服装的起源进行科学推测。In order to explore the inner connection between the oracle bone inscriptions and the origin of Chinese clothing,combined with related discoveries of philology and archaeology,the method of ancient Chinese character source analysis was used to analyze the Chinese characters related to clothing,such as belts,hats,and footwear in oracle bone inscriptions.The conclusion was reached that clothing originated from labor needs.That is,the origin of clothing is the original leather belt,which is a tool for carrying tools.The word“(dai)”in oracle is the initial state of the clothing,that is,the shape of a leather belt combined with a front towel and a back towel,and the word“mao”in the headwear was originally an important tool or method for primitive humans to hunt.And with the improvement of primitive human production technology,a symbolic“guan”appeared.In the Neolithic Age,the“guan”gradually developed as an important prop in etiquette culture.The production of footwear has an inevitable connection with its final molding is limited by factors such as tanning and fiber processing technology.Extracting the relevant information contained in the oracle bone inscriptions as a reference point for the origin of clothing can reasonably make scientific speculations about the origin of traditional Chinese clothing.

关 键 词：甲骨文 服装 起源 首服 足服 

分 类 号：TS941.19[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]