防染剂“蜡”与蜡染在古代织物中应用减少关系再识  

Recognition of the Relationship Between Anti-dyeing Agent"Wax"and the Decreased Application of Chinese Wax Dyeing in Ancient Fabric Decoration

作　　者：汪训虎[1,2] 玛尔亚木·依不拉音木 曹洪勇 Wang Xunhu

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院 [2]南通大学 [3]新疆吐鲁番学研究院 [4]吐鲁番市博物馆

出　　处：《南方文物》2021年第4期251-255,共5页Cultural Relics in Southern China

基　　金：“中国传统服饰文化的抢救传承与设计创新”服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：宋代及以后蜡染在古代织物装饰中应用减少,以往有研究将其归因为蜡染的防染剂"蜡"采集艰难,中原产蜡少,蜡稀缺。本文重新研究了传统蜡染工艺中防染剂"蜡"的种类,产蜡动物"蜂"、"白蜡虫"的养殖,蜡的获取方式,梳理了宋代的产蜡区域,通过文献对岁贡、朝贡、互市易物中有关的"蜡"记载,探讨宋代蜡的产量。认为宋及以后"蜡"的采集较前朝更容易,获取渠道增加,防染剂"蜡"稀缺并非蜡染在古代织物装饰中应用减少的主要原因。The application of Chinese wax dyeing in anci ent fabric decoration had decreased in Song Dynasty and lat-er.The previous studies attributed it to the difficulty of collecting anti-dyeing agent"wax",and the wax produced in China is less and the wax is scarce.In our research,the types of anti-dye"wax"in the traditional batik pro-cess,the breeding of wax-producing animals"bees"and"white wax insects",and the methods of obtaining wax were investigated.The wax-producing areas in the Song Dynasty was also investigated.Based on the records about the"wax"in the annual tribute,tributary,and barter in Song Dynasty.It is believed that the collection of"wax"in Song and later is easier than that of the previous period,and the channels for obtaining"wax"are increased.Therefore we concluded that the wax is not scarce which is not the main reason for the decrease in the application of batik in ancient fabric decoration.

关 键 词：防染剂“蜡” 蜡染 再识 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]