基于CLO 3D的连身袖基型结构设计与应用  

Design and application of the body-linked sleeve's basic pattern based on CLO 3D

作　　者：于新尧 许君 郑瑞平[1] 张亚楠 吕昕航 景晓宁[1] YU Xinyao;XU Jun;ZHENG Ruiping;ZHANG Yanan;Lü Xinhang;JING Xiaoning(School of Textile Science and Engineering,Tiangong University,Tianjin 300387,China)

机构地区：[1]天津工业大学纺织科学与工程学院,天津300387

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2021年第10期34-39,共6页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：天津市文化艺术科学项目(C20027)。

摘　　要：为了探究汉服版型在现代服装设计中应用的突破口,针对汉服版型设计尚未标准化的问题,运用文献研究法与实证研究法,结合人体工学和汉服的成衣特点,以汉服为研究对象,在原型法的基础上,通过对汉服款式结构变化的分析,探究适用于现代审美的汉服基型,形成一套独特的连身袖基型结构,在汉服设计中以连身袖基型来代替女装原型,使汉服纸样设计基型化、程式化、标准化,达到快速准确地进行传统及现代汉服设计的目的。进而运用CLO 3D软件对运用连身袖基型设计的服装进行合体性测试。得出,在连身袖基型的基础上可以进行多种连身袖服装的应用设计。In order to explore the application of the Han-style clothing pattern in the modern clothing design,the method of literature research and positive research were used to solve the problem of un-standardized pattern design of Han-style clothing.Based on the prototype method,the basic pattern of Han-style clothing was studied through the analysis of the changes in the style and structure by combining the ergonomics and the clothing characteristics of the Han-style clothing,which is suitable for modern aesthetics and a set of unique basic pattern of the body-linked sleeve was formed.In the design of Han-style clothing,the prototype of women's clothing is replaced by the basic shape of the sleeve,which makes the pattern design of Han-style clothing basic,stylized and standardized,and achieves the goal of fast and accurate design of traditional and modern Han-style clothing.Then CLO 3D software was used on the sleeve-based design of clothing fitting test.It is concluded that the application design of a variety of connected sleeve garments can be carried out on the basis of the basic pattern of connected sleeve.

关 键 词：原型法 汉服基型 平面造型 CLO 3D 三维虚拟试衣 应用设计 

分 类 号：TS941.717[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]