《清明上河图》之百工衣裤装探源  

On the origin of clothing and trousers of hundreds of workers in Qing Ming Shang He Tu

作　　者：黄智高 HUANG Zhigao(Fashion School,Henan University of Engineering,Zhengzhou 451191,China)

机构地区：[1]河南工程学院服装学院,郑州451191

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第11期94-99,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(18BG112)。

摘　　要：针对张择端版《清明上河图》所绘百工服饰形制基本特征缺少归纳研究的问题,以及其形制渊源被指向胡服的存疑,应用横向比较归纳法、纵向比较溯源法并结合文献实证,对该图及相关比较图像中的代表形象进行探讨、考证,得出其百工服饰基本形制为衣裤装及其不应源于胡服的结论。研究表明:百工衣裤装形制有长衣长裤、短衣短裤、短衣长裤三大类型,亦即衣裤装;衣裤装应为中原固有而非自胡服;“胡服骑射”并不能佐证衣裤装源于胡服的观点,而另有内涵,即着衣裤装并配革靴、革带用于骑射;小袖圆领短衣形制的胡服应是中原衣裤装影响之结果。In response to the lack of generalized research on the basic features of the costume forms of the hundreds of workers depicted in Zhang Zeduan’s version of Qing Ming Shang He Tu,and the doubt of the origin of the forms pointing to the Hu costume,this paper explores and verifies the representative images in the panting and the related comparative paintings through the horizontal comparison and generalization method,the vertical comparison and tracing method and the documentary evidence.It is concluded that the basic forms of the costume of the hundreds of workers are clothing and trousers and might not be derived from the Hu costume.The study shows that the clothing and trousers of hundreds of workers are divided into three main types,namely,long clothing and trousers,short clothing and trousers,and short clothing and trousers;the clothing and trousers should be inherent in the Middle Kingdom,not derived from Hu costume;the phrase"riding and shooting on horse in Hu costume"cannot serve as an evidence for the view that the clothing and trousers are originated from Hu costume,but it has another connotation,i.e.,wearing clothing and trousers with leather boots and leather belts for riding and shooting;the small-sleeved round-necked short garment is the result of the influence of the clothing and trousers of the Middle Kingdom.

关 键 词：《清明上河图》 百工 衣裤装 中原 渊源 图形比较 衣裤形制 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]