局部形态驱动的个体化青年女裤裆弯线生成  

Generation of Individualized Crotch Curves of Young Female’s Pants Driven by Local Shape

作　　者：夏圆平 邵佳玉 张贝贝 靳守宁 顾冰菲 XIA Yuanping;SHAO Jiayu;ZHANG Beibei;JIN Shouning;GU Bingfei(Fashion College,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Clothing Engineering Research Center of Zhejiang Province,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Products Design Digital Technology,Ministry of Culture and Tourism,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学,服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学,浙江省服装工程技术研究中心,杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学,丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化和旅游部重点实验室,杭州310018

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2021年第6期91-97,共7页Advanced Textile Technology

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(61702461,61702460);浙江理工大学科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2020Q051);中国纺织工业联合会科技指导性项目(2018079);2020年“纺织之光”应用基础研究项目(J202007);浙江理工大学2020年硕士研究生优秀学位论文培育基金项目(LW-YP2020053)。

摘　　要：为提高裤装合体性,通过将人体体型与裤装样板相结合的方法,实现了基于局部形态的个体化裤装样板裆弯线生成。首先对152名年龄在18~25岁的在校女大学生的裆部形态相关参数进行分析,建立人体裆弯曲线拟合模型,其中自变量为腰厚、腰围线到臀围线的距离、腹厚、臀厚以及腰围线到腹围线的距离。再根据人体与服装的关系,确定出人体裆弯曲线与裤装样板裆弯线之间的对应关系,确定个体化裤装样板裆弯线生成方法。最后将个体化裤装样板进行三维虚拟试穿,结果显示个体化裤装样板裆弯线与人体裆部曲线的贴合程度较高,验证了个体化裤装样板裆弯线生成方法的可行性。To improve the fitness of pants,individualized crotch curves of pant templates based on local shape were generated by combining human body shapes and pant templates.First of all,the crotch shape parameters of 152 female college students aged 18 to 25 were analyzed and a fitting model of human crotch curves was set up.The independent variables were waist thickness,the distance from waist line to hip line,abdominal thickness,hip thickness and the distance from waist line to abdominal line.Then,according to the relationship between human body and clothing,the correspondence between the human crotch curves and crotch curves of pant templates was determined,and a generation method of crotch curves of individualized pant templates was identified.Lastly,3 D models tried on the individualized pant templates,and the results showed that the crotch curves of individualized pant templates well fit into human crotch curves,which supported the feasibility of the proposed generation method of crotch curves of individualized pant templates.

关 键 词：女裤 裆弯线 裤装样板 局部形态 相关分析 回归模型 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]