C.I.活性黑5染色棉织物的光汗复合褪色机理  

The discoloration mechanism of cotton fabrics dyedwith C.I.Reactive Black 5under light-perspiration conditions

作　　者：张海燕 钱涛 余培泽 兰淑仙 崔志华[1,2] ZHANG Haiyan;QIAN Tao;YU Peize;LAN Shuxian;CUI Zhihua(Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing&Finishing of Textiles,Ministry of Education,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Hangzhou Jihua Polymer Material Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 311228,China;Transfar Zhilian Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou 311215,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,杭州310018 [3]杭州吉华高分子材料股份有限公司,杭州311228 [4]传化智联股份有限公司,杭州311215

出　　处：《浙江理工大学学报（自然科学版）》2021年第6期763-772,共10页Journal of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University(Natural Sciences)

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(21808210);浙江省重点研发计划项目(2021C01058);浙江省自然科学基金项目(LY21B060010)。

摘　　要：部分活性染料染色棉织物的耐光汗复合色牢度差,导致户外纺织品在服用过程中汗液和日光复合(光汗复合)产生严重的褪变色问题。为解决该问题,以C.I.活性黑5为研究对象,探究影响光汗复合牢度的关键因素,并通过液相分析、质谱分析、抗氧化剂HALS-1整理和抗还原剂间硝基苯磺酸钠整理等手段揭示活性染料染色棉织物在光汗复合条件下的褪变色机理。结果表明:汗液酸碱性对日晒牢度的影响较大,酸性或碱性越强,活性染料耐光汗复合色牢度越差;汗液组分对耐光汗复合色牢度劣化的影响程度不同,按照影响程度大小的顺序依次为L-组氨酸盐酸盐一水合物、乳酸、氯化钠;当汗液与日光同时存在的情况下,活性染料在棉织物上以光致还原机理为主。该研究可为活性染料的耐光汗复合色牢度研究提供理论基础,对提高相关服装的市场竞争力有一定的参考价值。Cotton fabrics dyed with some reactive dyes show poor light-perspiration fastness,leading to serious fading and discoloration of outdoor textiles during wearing.In order to solve the abovementioned problem,this article takes the C.I.Reactive Black 5as the research object,to explore key factors affecting the light-perspiration fastness and investigate the discoloration mechanism of cotton fabric dyed by reactive dyes under light-perspiration conditions,based on liquid chromatography,mass spectrometry,anti-oxidant HALS-1finishing and anti-reducing agent sodium m-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid sodium.The research results show that:acidity and alkalinity of sweat have a great impact on light fastness.The stronger acidity or alkalinity,the worse light-perspiration fastness of reactive dyes.Sweat components have different effects on the deterioration of light-perspiration fastness,and the order of effect degree is L-histidine hydrochloride monohydrate,lactic acid,and sodium chloride.When sweat and sunlight coexist,reactive dyes are mainly photoreduced on cotton fabrics.This study can provide a theoretical basis for the research on light-perspiration fastness,and has an important practical value for improving the market competitiveness of related garments.

关 键 词：活性染料 耐光汗复合色牢度 褪色机理 棉织物 抗还原剂 

分 类 号：TS193.638[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]