超声波无痕压胶参数对针织运动装缝口性能的影响  

Effect of Ultrasonic Non-Trace Pressing Parameters on the Performance of Knitted Sports Seam

作　　者：王建萍[1,2] 张宇婷 郑牧青 袁鲁宁 张舒杨 WANG Jianping;ZHANG Yuting;ZHENG Muqing;YUAN Luning;ZHANG Shuyang(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Quelea Space Sports Technology(Shanghai),Shanghai 200040,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室(东华大学),上海200051 [3]奎丽空间运动科技(上海)有限公司,上海200040

出　　处：《服装学报》2021年第5期377-383,共7页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项基金项目(2232020G-08);国家重点研发计划“科技冬奥”重点项目(2019YFF0302100)。

摘　　要：为提高针织运动装无痕缝口性能并优化超声波无痕压胶工艺参数,选取锦氨纬编针织运动面料,以接缝强力和胶条剥离强度为缝口性能评价指标对超声波振幅、花轮速度、热风温度和风嘴气压工艺参数设计单因素实验。通过单因素方差和多元线性回归方法分析工艺参数对缝口性能的影响,并用SEM电镜观察缝口的微观形貌。结果表明:无痕缝口性能较佳的工艺参数为超声波振幅30%~40%,花轮速度100~150 cm/min,热风温度310℃,风嘴压力0.08 MPa;接缝强力与超声波振幅、花轮速度和风嘴气压有较显著的线性关系,剥离强力与热风温度和风嘴气压有极其显著的线性关系;从微观角度看,胶条与面料之间空隙越小,有效黏结面积越大,缝口性能越好。In order to improve the seamless seam performance of knitted sportswear and optimize the process parameters of ultrasonic seamless pressing,the nylon/polyurethane weft knitted sportswear fabric was selected,and the seam strength and adhesive film peeling strength were taken as the seam performance evaluation indexes.The ultrasonic amplitude,wheel speed,hot air temperature and air pressure of air nozzle were designed by single factor test.Single factor variance and multiple linear regression were used to analyze the effect of process parameters on the seam properties,and the microstructure of the seam was observed by SEM.The results show that the best technological parameters of seamless seam are ultrasonic amplitude 30%~40%,wheel speed 100~150 cm/min,hot air temperature 310℃,nozzle pressure 0.08 MPa.There is a significant linear relationship between seam strength and ultrasonic amplitude,wheel speed and air pressure of nozzle,and there is a significant linear relationship between peel strength and hot air temperature and air pressure of nozzle.It is found that the smaller the gap between the strip and the fabric,the larger the effective bonding area,and the better the seam performance.

关 键 词：超声波无痕压胶 工艺参数 针织运动面料 无痕缝口 缝口性能 

分 类 号：TS941.65[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]