旅游地饮食符号经济:地方符号营造与路径依赖  

Food Symbol Economy in Tourist Destination:The Making of Local Symbol and Path Dependence

作　　者：王玉婷 徐红罡[1] 劳丽芬 Wang Yuting;Xu Honggang;Lao Lifen(School of Tourism Management,Sun Yat-Sen University,Guangzhou 510631,China)

机构地区：[1]中山大学旅游学院,广州510631

出　　处：《热带地理》2021年第6期1246-1257,共12页Tropical Geography

摘　　要：饮食符号是旅游目的地符号系统的重要组成部分,以地方特色饮食为基础的旅游餐饮也是旅游地的重要经济活动。文章以阳朔啤酒鱼为例,分析旅游地饮食符号经济的特点与形成机制。研究发现,1)旅游地饮食符号的形成既是对地方特色的营销与建构,也是特定饮食产品生产与消费集聚的路径依赖结果。2)从饮食生产的角度,就地取材、利润高、制作工艺简单等特点使啤酒鱼餐饮能够大规模、低成本地发展;从饮食消费的角度,啤酒鱼既具有地方特色又能够被大众口味所接受,同时满足游客的符号性和支持性的餐饮体验。3)消费性服务业的集聚能够营造良好的氛围并产生累积吸引力,使得啤酒鱼的营销成本更低、销量更高,从而形成正反馈机制。Food symbols with local characteristics are part of the image of a tourist destination,and tourism catering based on local food is one of the important economic activities of such destinations.This study analyzed the formation of the food symbol economy in tourism destinations through the story of Yangshuo beer fish.As a food product with a short history in Yangshuo,beer fish has grown out of nothing and from less to more,and it has gradually evolved into a food symbol of Yangshuo.This study used in-depth interviews,observation,and second-hand data methods to collect data,and analyzed the data through thematic analysis,process analysis,and feedback analysis methods to explore the formation mechanism of Yangshuo's beer fish food symbol economy.It finds that the reason for the food symbol economy is not only the marketing of local characteristics but also the path dependence of product agglomeration.From the perspective of product characteristics,the image of the beer fish aligns with Yangshuo's location on the banks of the Li Jiang River;further,fish is a food that suits local conditions.Additionally,Yangshuo West Street's pub culture is famous,in line with the image of Yangshuo.From the perspective of food production,local materials,high profits,and simple cooking procedures,beer fish cuisine can be produced on a large scale and at a low cost.The barriers to entry for the beer fish catering market are low with strong profit drivers;consequently,new catering companies choose beer fish as the main product.From the perspective of food consumption,the taste of beer fish has local characteristics and is accepted by the public,thus meeting the symbolic and supportive dietary needs of tourists.The recommendations of the government,residents,and other stakeholders further strengthen the image of beer fish.The agglomeration of the services industry can result in the consumption of such products among tourists and generate cumulative appeal,thereby reducing the marketing costs of enterprises.Lower cost and higher sales mak

关 键 词：符号经济 地方饮食符号 旅游目的地 路径依赖 阳朔啤酒鱼 

分 类 号：F592.7[经济管理—旅游管理] TS971[经济管理—产业经济]