聚焦波在岸礁断面上传播演化的物理模型实验研究  

Laboratory study of focused wave propagation over fringing reef

作　　者：范浩煦 房克照[1] 孙家文[1,2] 刘忠波 吴浩[1] FAN Hao-xu;FANG Ke-zhao;SUN Jia-wen;LIU Zhong-bo;WU Hao(The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Dalian University of Technology,Dalian 116024,China;National Marine Environmental Monitoring Center,State Oceanic Administration,Dalian 116023,China;School of traffic and transportation engineering,Dalian Maritime University,Dalian 116026,China)

机构地区：[1]大连理工大学海岸和近海工程国家重点实验室,大连116024 [2]国家海洋环境监测中心,大连116023 [3]大连海事大学交通运输工程学院,大连116026

出　　处：《水动力学研究与进展（A辑）》2021年第4期532-539,共8页Chinese Journal of Hydrodynamics

基　　金：国家重点研发计划资助项目(2019YFC1407700);国家自然科学基金资助项目(51579034,51779022,51809053)。

摘　　要：基于水槽物理模型实验,研究聚焦波在理想化岸礁断面上传播演化的水动力过程。岸礁模型前坡坡度为1:4,后接6 m宽的礁坪。通过相位聚焦原理,在岸礁前坡处生成具有JONSWAP谱型的大波高入射聚焦波。利用浪高仪和ADV流速仪阵列测量沿岸礁断面的波浪自由表面和流速历时曲线变化。基于实验数据,重点分析了波面、流速和波浪能谱在波浪传播过程中的演化特征,探讨了礁冠对相关水动力特征的影响。对于所考虑的入射波浪条件,研究发现:礁前斜坡的存在增强了波浪聚焦过程中的非线性作用,波谱能量转移显著,尤其是高频谐波增长明显;无礁冠时,礁坪上的破碎波浪出现明显的重组过程;礁冠有降低礁坪上短周期波动强度和增强长周期波动强度的作用。The hydrodynamic process of focusing wave propagation and evolution over idealized fringing reef is experimentally studied in a two-dimensional wave flume.The reef model is 0.85 m in height and has a steep fore-reef slope of 1:4,connected to a 6 m wide reef flat.The large transient wave group with JONSWAP spectrum is generated over fore-reef slope by focusing wave train.The time histories of free surface elevation and flow velocity along fringing reef are collected by series of wave gauges and current meters.The evolution characteristics of wave surface,velocity and wave energy spectrum are analyzed.For the considered wave condition,it is found that the steep fore-reef slope enhances the nonlinear interaction during focusing process,which leads to apparent wave energy transfer in the spectrum,especially the significant increase of higher harmonics.Re-organization of breaking waves over reef flat of fring ing reef without reef crest is found.The reef crest is prone to decrease the short-period wave motion and increase the long-period wave motion on the reef flat.

关 键 词：聚焦波 岸礁 物理模型实验 波浪破碎 小波变换 波浪能谱 

分 类 号：O359.1[理学—流体力学]