横机编织仿留青竹刻纹样制版创新设计与工艺  

Innovative design and craftsmanship of Liuqing bamboo carving patterns imitation with flat-knitting machine

作　　者：熊秋元[1] 周生力[1] XIONG Qiuyuan;ZHOU Shengli(Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile And Garment,Changzhou,Jiangsu 213164,China)

机构地区：[1]常州纺织服装职业技术学院,江苏常州213164

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2021年第11期7-10,共4页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：江苏高校品牌专业建设工程资助项目(PPZY2015B192)。

摘　　要：依据传统留青竹刻纹样形成方法和特点,对仿留青竹刻纹样制版创新设计和编织工艺作深入研究,分析了国产电脑横机成圈、集圈、翻针、移圈、移床等编织动作,充分利用绞花、提花、浮线、正反线圈横机编织常见织物的肌理效果,依托龙星LXC-252SC电脑横机和睿能制版软件,开发出紫金花、牡丹花、山峰、蜘蛛、复杂几何、麒麟等多种肌理效果的仿留青竹刻纹样,并结合手绘图稿和实际织物外观肌理详细阐述了制版设计思路和制版工艺设计方法,达到了拓展制版的设计思路,创新织物组织编织方法,为针织品设计师及工艺师进行组织结构开发提供一种全新的思路。In this paper,the innovative design and knitting technology of Liuqing bamboo carving pattern imitation process were deeply studied according to the forming method and characteristics of traditional Liuqing bamboo carving pattern.The looping,tucking,reverse stitch,loop transfer and bed shifting of domestic computerized flat knitting machine were analyzed,the texture effects of common tissues of cable stitch,jacquard,floating yarn,positive and negative stitches of flat knitting machines were fully used.Various texture styles such as purple flower,peony,mountain peak,spider complex geometry,unicorn,etc.,were developed relying on Dragon Star brand LXC-252C computerized flat knitting machine with RuiNeng plate making software.The plate making design ideas and plate making technology design methods were elaborated in detail combined with the hand-painted artwork and actual fabric appearance texture,so as to expand the design ideas of plate making and innovate the horizontal weaving method,which provides a new idea for knitwear designers and technologists to develop the structure of knitwear.

关 键 词：竹刻纹样 手绘 制版设计 横机编织 肌理 

分 类 号：TS186.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]