翻驳领中翻折线的变化与倒伏量的关系探讨  

Discussion on the Relationship Between the Change of the Shape of the Roll Line and Gradient Data in the Lapel Collar

作　　者：龚倩琳 侯东昱[1,2] 王祎 Gong Qianlin;Hou Dongyu;Wang Yi(College of Textiles and Garment,Hebei University of Science and Technology,Shijiazhuang,Hebei 050018,China;Hebei Textile and Garment Engineering Technology Research Center,Shijiazhuang,Hebei 050018,China)

机构地区：[1]河北科技大学纺织服装学院,河北石家庄050018 [2]河北省纺织服装工程技术研究中心,河北石家庄050018

出　　处：《天津纺织科技》2021年第5期28-30,共3页Tianjin Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：翻折线作为驳头与挂面其他部位的重要连接点,决定着翻驳领的造型和倒伏量的大小,而倒伏量的大小决定着服装的领部舒适度和美观度。为了解翻驳领翻折线形状变化与倒伏量的关系,文中通过富怡CAD绘制结构图,并测量随着翻折线的改变倒伏量的大小变化,进行数据分析,并制作样衣进行直观反映。结果表明,直线形、半直线半弧线和弧线形的倒伏量大小排序为:半直线半弧线形翻折线(5.40cm)>直线形翻折线(2.38 cm)>弧线形翻折线(1.10 cm)。As an important connection point between the lapel and the other parts of the facing lining,the roll line determines the shape of the lapel and the size of the gradient data,while the size of the gradient data determines the comfort and aesthetics of the collar of the garment.To understand the relationship between the change in the shape of the roll line and the gradient data,draw a structure diagram with Fuyi CAD and measure the amount of the gradient data as the roll line changes.According to the data obtained by Fuyi CAD,the data analysis is carried out,and the sample clothes are produced for visual reflection.The results show that the gradient data amount of linear,semi-straight and half-arc and arc is half-straight semi-arc(5.40 cm)>straight-line flip(2.38 cm)>arc-shaped folding(1.10 cm).

关 键 词：翻驳领 倒伏量 翻折线 翻折线变化 关系探讨 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]