单向导湿舒适性夏季服装面料的研发  

Research and Development of Single Guide Wet Comfort Summer Clothing Fabric

作　　者：吕治家 邢明杰[2] LYU Zhijia;XING Mingjie(Weiqiao Textile Co.,Ltd.,Binzhou,256200,China;Qingdao University,Qingdao,266071,China)

机构地区：[1]魏桥纺织股份有限公司,山东滨州256200 [2]青岛大学,山东青岛266071

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2021年第12期42-46,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

摘　　要：探讨单向导湿舒适性夏季服装面料的研发技术要点。分析了单向导湿的功能原理和技术手段,介绍了单向导湿面料在材质应用、纺纱技术、织物组织结构设计、后整理工艺、色彩应用等方面的技术路线及考量因素,重点以单向导湿舒适性针织面料为例开展技术优化试验,对吸湿透气、速干等性能指标进行测试对比。结果表明:采用丙纶纱为里层,细号涤纶长丝为表层,里层为平面状,表层为网眼状,进行亲水整理,面料具有良好的单向导湿、透气、速干性能。指出:设计开发舒适性夏季服装面料,需要关注视觉舒适性、触觉舒适性和热湿舒适性各类因素。Research and development technology of single guide wet comfort summer clothing fabric were discussed.Function principle and technology method of single guide wet were analyzed.Technology route and consideration factor of single guide wet fabric in material application,spinning technology and fabric weave design,finishing process,colour application were introduced.Single guide wet knitted fabric was taken as an key example to carry out the technology optimization test,moisture absorption and breathability,quick drying property were tested and contrasted.The results showed that the fabric had better single guide wet,air permeability,quick drying property when inner layer was polypropylene yarn,surface layer was fine polyester filament,inner layer was plane structure,surface layer was mesh structure,and with hydrophilic finishing.It is pointed out that visual comfort,touch comfort and thermal comfort should be paid attention to when designing and developing comfortable fabric for summer clothing.

关 键 词：舒适性 功能面料 单向导湿 织物组织 运动面料 丙纶 亲水整理 

分 类 号：TS106[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]