纺织品非水介质染色技术的研究进展  

Research progress of textile non-aqueous medium dyeing technology

作　　者：陈静如 裴刘军 张红娟 王际平 吴金丹[3] CHEN Jingru;PEI Liujun;ZHANG Hongjuan;WANG Jiping;WU Jindan(Shanghai Textile Chemistry and Clean Production Engineering Research Center,Shanghai 201620,China;School of Textiles and Fashion,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China;College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]上海纺织化学清洁生产工程技术研究中心,上海201620 [2]上海工程技术大学纺织服装学院,上海201620 [3]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第12期54-62,共9页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(22072089);国家“十三五”重点研发项目(2017YFB0309600);新疆生产建设兵团重大科技项目(2019AAA001)。

摘　　要：随着经济发展与生态环保之间矛盾的日益突出,纺织化学工业的发展对人类生活环境造成了严重的影响。近年来,整个行业以节水、节能、生态环保的生产理念对纺织化学清洁生产加工技术方面进行了大量研究和开发,并取得了一定的成就。文章对现有非水或无水染色技术进行总结和分析,介绍了几种研究较多的非水介质染色技术,包括有机溶剂染色、液体石蜡染色和硅基非水介质染色。对比了这些染色方法的应用和局限性,并着重介绍了硅基非水染色技术和该技术的发展现状,以活性染料染棉为例,活性染料在该体系中上染率接近100%,固色率高达90%以上,相较于传统水浴染色提高了30%~40%,硅基非水介质染色从源头上解决了棉纤维染色污水排放量大、染料浪费严重的难题,为实现染色污水零排放奠定了基础,有望为纺织品染色闯出一条清洁生产和可持续发展之路,改变传统染色工业水环境污染严重的形象。With the increasingly prominent contradiction between economic development and ecological environmental protection,the development of the textile chemical industry has exerted serious impact on human life environment.In recent years,through a large number of studies and development of textile chemistry cleaning production and processing technology based on the concepts of water saving,energy saving,and ecological environmental protection,the whole industry has yielded some achievements.This article summarized and analyzed the existing non-aqueous or anhydrous dyeing technologies,and introduced several frequently researched non-aqueous medium dyeing technologies,including organic solvent dyeing,liquid paraffin dyeing and silicone non-aqueous dyeing.Then,the article compared the application and limitations of these dyeing methods,and specifically introduced the development state of silicone non-aqueous dyeing technology.Taking reactive dyed cotton as an example,it is found that the dye uptake rate of reactive dyes in the system is close to 100%,a fixation rate of up to 90%,an increase of 30%-40%compared to the traditional water bath dyeing method.The silicone medium dyeing method has solved the problem of large sewage discharge from cotton fiber dyeing and serious dye waste from the source,laying the foundation to realize zero sewage discharge.It is expected to open up a path of cleaner production and sustainable development for textile dyeing and change the image of serious water pollution in the traditional dyeing industry.

关 键 词：活性染料 分散染料 溶剂染色 硅基非水介质 液体石蜡 反胶束染色 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]