中山装的释义与史实  

The interpretation and historical facts of Zhongshan suit

作　　者：朱博伟 刘瑞璞[1] ZHU Bowei;LIU Ruipu(School of Fashion Arts and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第12期80-85,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学重大项目(18ZD20)。

摘　　要：中山装代表“三民主义”“国之四维”“五权宪法”的释义在学界和社会广为流传,甚至一度成为“正史”,但相关记录却一直语焉不详,无法提供可靠的史料支持。文章基于民国时期文献、图像和实物史料深入详实地综合考证、梳理“三民四维五权”形成的时间节点,并将其与孙中山生前“所御猎服”的历史源流进行比较研究,指出二者在内容和时间上的差异。确凿的史实证明,释义实为后人附会,它的产生晚于中山装出现的时间,不可能用于指导中山装的创制。而中山装的形制结构在释义出现前后也有明显的变化,与释义的解读呈现出完全不同的面貌。The interpretation of the Zhongshan suit representing"Three People’s Principles","Four Dimensions of the State"and"Five-power Constitution"has been widely circulated in academic circles and society,and has even been recorded in official history.However,the relevant records have been mentioned but vaguely,without reliable historical support.In this paper,the time nodes of the generation of"Three People,Four Dimensions and Five Powers"were sorted out through in-depth field investigation based on the literature,image and physical historical data during the period of the Republic of China.Through comparative studies of the historical origin of Sun Yat-sen’s"hunting clothes",the study pointed out the differences between the two in terms of content and time.It is proved by valid historical facts that the interpretation is actually the farfetched interpretation by later generations,because it was created later than the emergence of the Zhongshan suit and could not have been used to guide the production of the Zhongshan suit.The shape and structure of the Zhongshan suit also changed significantly before and after the appearance of the interpretation of the meaning,presenting a completely different look compared to the interpretation of the meaning.

关 键 词：中山装 释义 三民主义 国之四维 五权宪法 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]