明代官服的结构研究与数字化复原  

Structural research and digital restoration of official robe in the Ming dynasty

作　　者：佟萌 李雪飞 TONG Meng;LI Xuefei(Information Center,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Fashion Accessory Art and Engineering College,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院信息中心,北京100029 [2]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《丝绸》2021年第12期110-116,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：北京服装学院研究生科研创新项目(X2021-099)。

摘　　要：明代官服是明代服饰文化中“礼”的代表,具有区分等级,辨别尊卑的作用。官服体现了对唐、宋、元服饰的继承与创新,但实体文物展出具有时间与空间的局限,以图片资料为主的数字化资源只能从二维角度进行研究。文章以明代文武官员服装为例,研究其形制与结构特点。选取孔府旧藏中朝服、公服、常服,在复原其结构、面料纹样基础上进行三维建模与展示,提出成套服装的组合建模方法,得到明代文武官员服装完整的数字化复原效果。通过数字化复原明代官服,探寻实现中国古代服饰文化的传播之路。The official robe of the Ming dynasty is the representative of"ritual"in traditional Ming costume culture,which plays a role in distinguishing the hierarchy between the superior and inferior,and reflects the inheritance and innovation of the Tang,Song and Yuan dynasties.However,as the exhibition of physical cultural relics is under spatial and temporal limitations,the digital resources mainly based on pictures can only be studied from a two-dimensional perspective.Taking the robe of civil and military officials in the Ming dynasty as an example,the shape,structure and characteristics were investigated in this paper.The ceremonial court dress,formal court dress and normal court dress in the old collection of Kong Family Mansion were selected to restore the structure,fabric patterns,for the subsequent 3D modelling and display.In this process,a combinatorial modeling approach for complete sets of clothing was proposed.The complete digital restoration effect of civil and military official robe was obtained in the end.Through the digital restoration of the official robe in the Ming dynasty,this study expects to explore the way to realize the dissemination of the ancient Chinese costume culture.

关 键 词：明代服饰 结构 服装建模 虚拟展示 孔府旧藏 成套服装 文化传播 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]