皂基/氨基酸复配型洁面产品的性能研究  

Study on the performance of facial cleansers based on the mixture of a soap and an amino acid surfactant

作　　者：何广文 颜少慰 曾一帆 闫加雷 钱景茹 王靖 He Guangwen;Yan Shaowei;Zeng Yifan;Yan Jialei;Qian Jingru;Wang Jing(R&D,Hunan Yujia Cosmetics Manufacturing Co.,Ltd.,Changsha,Hunan 410000,China;School of Chemical&Material Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司研发中心,湖南长沙410000 [2]江南大学化工与材料工程学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《日用化学工业》2021年第12期1228-1234,共7页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：根据洁面的开发需求,筛选了合适的皂基型表面活性剂和氨基酸型表面活性剂,制得纯皂基型、纯氨基酸型以及皂基/氨基酸复配型(简称皂氨型)洁面产品,采用人体法评测,结合皮肤染色残留实验,皮肤天然保湿因子和脂质溶出实验,对3种产品的保湿、控油、温和性等性能进行对比研究。结果表明:皂氨型洁面对皮肤的保湿锁水能力优于纯皂型洁面,而控油能力优于纯氨基酸型洁面,且使用感方面皂氨型洁面整体上优于皂基型和氨基酸型洁面。此外,皂氨型洁面在人体皮肤上的残留少于纯氨基酸型,同时对皮肤的温和性优于纯皂基型。总体而言,皂氨型洁面产品实现了洗净力、温和性和使用感的良好平衡。According to the demand for development of facial cleansers,the suitable soap based surfactant and the amino acid surfactant were selected to prepare facial cleansers based on pure soap,pure amino acid surfactant and the mixture of soap and amino acid surfactant.The moisturizing,sebum control and mildness of the three kinds of facial cleansers were compared by volunteer evaluation,skin dyeing residue test and skin natural moisturizing factor/lipid extraction tests.The results showed that the ability of moisturizing of soap-amino acid surfactant based cleanser was higher than that of pure-soap based cleanser,and its sebum controlling property was better than that of pure-amino-acid-surfactant based cleanser.Moreover,the soap-amino acid surfactant based cleanser was the favourite one according to the volunteer evaluation.In addition,the residue of soap-amino acid surfactant based cleanser on the skin was less than that of pure-amino-acid-surfactant based cleanser,and its skin mildness was much better than that of pure-soap based cleanser.In general,the soap-amino acid surfactant based cleanser developed in this study achieves a better balance among cleansing ability,mildness and skin feeling.

关 键 词：皂氨复配 洁面产品 温和性 保湿性能 控油性能 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]