纬排2比1纬二重渐变显色结构设计原理与方法  

Design principle and method for gradient weft-backed structure with 2∶1 weft arrangement

作　　者：彭稀 屠永坚 周赳[1] PENG Xi;TU Yongjian;ZHOU Jiu(Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China;Babei Group Co., Ltd., Shaoxing, Zhejiang 312400, China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,浙江杭州310018 [2]巴贝集团有限公司,浙江绍兴312400

出　　处：《纺织学报》2021年第12期63-69,75,共8页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J201802);文化部重点实验室资助项目(2017016)。

摘　　要：为传承与发展中国古代织锦,通过分析地结型纬二重结构织锦的结构特征和技术限制,提出基于2比1纬排的纬二重遮盖结构与影光组织相结合的数码提花设计原理和方法。设计分为显色表纬为乙纬和甲纬2部分,针对2种遮盖原理设计2组表、里纬组织和对应遮盖技术点,其中表组织设计采用位移法和叠加筛选法,并通过影光加强法设计2个组合组织库。最后通过设计实践验证方法的可行性和效果。结果表明:该方法提高了织物的色彩表达能力,可在同一织物上实现以甲纬渐变为主、乙纬渐变为辅的2种渐变色彩效果,为传统提花织物的数码化创新设计提供借鉴。In order to inherit and develop the ancient Chinese brocade,a design principle and method for digital jacquard weaving combining weft-backed structures based on a 2∶1 weft arrangement with shadow weaves was proposed by analyzing the structural characteristics and technical limitations of ground-knot-type brocade using the weft-backed structure.Based on the fact that the fabric surface was intended to display colored weft yarns B and A,the design was divided into two parts.For these two types of covering principles,face and back weaves and corresponding backed points were determined,for which the displacement method and the superposition screening method were used to design the face weave.Then,the two combined weave databases were designed by shadow strengthening method.Feasibility and effect of the method were verified through practical design and manufacture.The results show that this method improves the color expression ability of the fabric.In addition,it demonstrated that two types of gradient color effects with the weft A as main and the weft B as secondary gradient color could be achieved on the same fabric.It provides reference for digital innovative design for the traditional jacquard fabrics.

关 键 词：丝绸 地结锦 数码提花 纬二重结构 影光渐变 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS105.1