基于离体皮肤的烟酰胺面膜美白保湿功效评价  

Whitening and Moisturizing Efficacy Evaluation of Facial Mask with Niacinamide Based on an ex vivo Human Skin

作　　者：解铜 王越 蒋丹丹 邹岳 周春霞 XIE Tong;WANG Yue;JIANG Dandan;ZOU Yue;ZHOU Chunxia(R&D Center of JALA(Group)Co,Ltd.,Shanghai 200233,China)

机构地区：[1]伽蓝(集团)有限公司研发中心,上海200233

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2021年第6期58-63,共6页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

摘　　要：建立了一种离体皮肤测试法,该方法可有效测试面膜产品的美白和保湿功效。在离体皮肤样品上模拟受试者敷面膜的过程,每天15 min,持续5天。处理结束后将离体皮肤样品制成皮肤组织切片,采用Fontan-Masson染色评估面膜的美白功效,采用AQP3、Claudin-1和Filaggrin免疫荧光染色评估面膜的保湿功效。结果显示,该面膜可显著降低表皮层中的黑色素含量,具有美白功效;同时,可提高AQP3、Claudin-1和Filaggrin的阳性率和荧光强度,说明该面膜具有保湿和增强表皮屏障的功效。该离体皮肤测试方法在化妆品其他类型的功效评价中也具有丰富的应用潜力。This study established an ex vivo skin test method,which can effectively test the whitening and moisturizing effects of facial mask products.Simulate the subject's process of applying a facial mask on the isolated skin sample for 15 min a day for 5 d.After the treatment,the isolated skin samples were made into skin tissue sections.Fontan-Masson staining was used to evaluate the whitening effect of the mask.AQP3,Claudin-1 and Filaggrin immuno-fluorescence staining were used to evaluate the moisturizing effect of the samples.The results showed that the mask can significantly reduce the melanin content in the epidermal layer and had a whitening effect.At the same time,the mask can increase the positive rate and fluorescence intensity of AQP3,Claudin-1 and Filaggrin,indicating that the mask has the effect of moisturizing and enhancing the epidermal barrier.The ex vivo skin test method also has great application potential in the other efficacy evaluation of cosmetics.

关 键 词：离体皮肤 烟酰胺 面膜 美白 保湿 

分 类 号：TQ658.29[化学工程—精细化工]