褶皱类面料分类及成形方法  

Classification and Forming Method of Pleated Fabrics

作　　者：何恬颖 田伟[1] 李启正[1] 林平 祝成炎[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院) [2]达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司

出　　处：《纺织导报》2021年第12期42-46,共5页China Textile Leader

摘　　要：褶皱类面料因富于层次感、显著的肌理特征和独特的视觉效果,在面料开发中具有独特的地位。文章以文献资料为背景进行深入研究,根据风格特点和工艺特点,归纳总结褶皱和褶皱类面料的不同分类。从工艺角度,将褶皱面料成形方法分为压褶法、缝制法和直接织造成形法三大类,分别对每种成形方法进行具体分析比较,论述不同成形工艺的优缺点,为褶皱面料的设计与应用提供有价值的理论参考。The pleated fabrics have a unique position in fabric development because of their rich sense of layers,remarkable texture characteristics and unique visual effects.Based on the literature,this paper summarizes the different classifications of pleats and pleated fabrics according to the characteristics of styles and technologies.From the point of view of technologies,the forming methods of pleated fabrics are divided into three categories,i.e.,crimping,sewing and direct weaving.Each forming method is analyzed and compared in detail,and their advantages and disadvantages are discussed,which provides a valuable theoretical reference for the design and application of pleated fabrics.

关 键 词：褶皱 分类 成形方法 压褶法 缝制法 织造成形法 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]