不同鞣制方法对皮革轻飘感的影响  

Effects of Tannage on the Light Feeling of Leather

作　　者：胡玥 王嘉莹 余跃[1] 孙青永 王亚楠[1,3] 石碧[1,3] HU Yue;WANG Jiaying;YU Yue;SUN Qingyong;WANG Yanan;SHI Bi(National Engineering Research Center of Clean Technology in Leather Industry,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China;Sichuan Decision New Material Technology Co.,Ltd.,Deyang 618000,China;Key Laboratory of Leather Chemistry and Engineering of Ministry of Education,Sichuan University,Chengdu 610065,China)

机构地区：[1]四川大学制革清洁技术国家工程研究中心,四川成都610065 [2]四川德赛尔新材料科技有限公司,四川德阳618000 [3]四川大学皮革化学与工程教育部重点实验室,四川成都610065

出　　处：《皮革科学与工程》2022年第1期15-20,共6页Leather Science and Engineering

基　　金：国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0308500);四川大学专职博士后研发基金项目(2021SCU12094)。

摘　　要：研究了铬鞣制、铝-锆鞣剂(TWLZ)鞣制、两性有机鞣剂(TWS)鞣制和戊二醛(Glu)鞣制对皮革轻飘感的影响。实验结果表明,不同鞣制方法得到的坯革的轻飘感呈现:铬鞣坯革>TWS鞣坯革>Glu鞣坯革>TWLZ鞣坯革。坯革质量和表观密度是导致其轻飘感存在差异的主要原因,而坯革质量主要受其鞣剂和染整材料含量的影响。尽管铬鞣坯革质量较大,但其最低的表观密度(0.61 g/cm^(3))使其表现出“松软和轻盈”的感官特性,轻飘感最佳。TWLZ鞣坯革质量最大且表观密度最高(0.80 g/cm^(3)),使其表现出“紧致和厚重”的感官特性,轻飘感最差。Glu和TWS鞣坯革质量最小且表观密度(0.70~0.72 g/cm^(3))相对较低,使得坯革的轻飘感间于Cr和TWLZ鞣坯革之间。该研究提出了一种客观评价坯革轻飘感的方法,并对“轻量化”皮革的生产有一定参考价值。The effects of chrome tannage,aluminum-zirconium(TWLZ)tannage,amphoteric organic(TWS)tannage,and glutaraldehyde(Glu)tannage on the light feeling of leather were investigated.The light feeling of leather tanned by different tannages presented the order of Cr tanned crust>TWS tanned crust>Glu tanned crust>TWLZ tanned crust.The mass and apparent density of crust leathers were two important factors influencing their light feeling,and the mass of crust leather was mainly affected by the content of tanning agents and post-tanning chemicals in crust leather.Although the mass of Cr tanned crust leather was relatively large,its lowest apparent density(0.61 g/cm^(3))made it exhibit the organoleptic properties of"soft and light".Thus,the Cr tanned crust leather had the best light feeling.TWLZ tanned crust leather showed the largest mass and the highest apparent density(0.80 g/cm^(3)),which made it exhibit the organoleptic properties of"tightness and heaviness".Thus,the TWLZ tanned crust leather had the worst light feeling.Glu and TWS tanned crust leathers had the smallest mass and the relative low apparent density(0.70~0.72 g/cm^(3)),which leads to the fact that the light feeling of these two kinds of crust leathers are between that of Cr and TWLZ tanned crust leathers.This research established an approach for evaluating the light feeling of leather,and was instructive for making the leather with light feeling.

关 键 词：鞣剂 轻飘感 质量 表观密度 

分 类 号：TS543[轻工技术与工程—皮革化学与工程]