“红裙妒杀石榴花”——《全唐诗》“红裙”服饰文化研究  

Red Dress Kills Pomegranate Flowers with Jealousy"——A Study on the Costume Culture of "Red Dress" in "The Poems of the Tang Dynasty

作　　者：王莉 邵旻[1] WONG Li;SHAO Min(Department of Stage Art,Shanghai Theatre Academy,Shanghai 200040 China)

机构地区：[1]上海戏剧学院舞台美术系,上海200040

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2021年第6期21-26,共6页Fashion Guide

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(18BG126)。

摘　　要：[研究意义及方法]清康熙年间编纂的《全唐诗》中涉及大量关于"红裙"服饰的描写,针对《全唐诗》中"红裙"服饰文化现象,文章运用考古文物、古文献史料及古代绘画三维印证的方法,从《全唐诗》红裙相关诗句的整理归纳、红裙与染色、红裙与佳人的关系等三面展开分析。[研究结论]研究认为:红裙在唐代妇女间是普遍流行的;红色染织原料的提取及染色技术的发展是造成红裙流行这一现象至关重要的一环;在唐朝红裙流行文化的背后,亦渗透了色彩的等级观念,这在中国色彩发展史上留下了浓墨重彩的一笔。The "Complete Tang Poems" compiled during the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty collected a large number of Tang Dynasty poems. The poets recorded all aspects of Tang Dynasty life through verses. Naturally, it also involved a lot of descriptions of "red dress" costumes. In response to the question of the research and analysis of the "red dress" costume culture in "The Poems of the Tang Dynasty", by using archaeological relics, ancient documents and historical materials and ancient paintings to verify the three-dimensional method, the article sorts outred dress related verses, analyzes the relationship between red dressesand dyeing, the relationship between red dresses and beautiful women. It concludes that red dresses were popular among women in the Tang Dynasty. The study highlights two points. First, the extraction of red dyeing and weaving materials and dyeing technologyis a crucial reason for the popularity of the red dress;second, behind the popular culture of the red dress in the Tang Dynasty, the concept of color hierarchyis also permeated making a strong mark in the history of color development in China.

关 键 词：红裙 《全唐诗》 传统色彩 女性服饰 植物染 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]