中老年凸肚体女性上衣塑形功能分析  

Analysis of the Shaping Function of Blouses for MiddleAged and Elderly Women with Convex Belly

作　　者：严艺嘉 姚洁 张明轩 胡玉琴 钟安华 YAN Yijia;YAO Jie;ZHANG Mingxuan;HU Yuqin;ZHONG Anhua(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2021年第6期82-86,共5页Fashion Guide

基　　金：湖北省教育厅自然科学研究项目(D20121707)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]中老年凸肚体女性身材与标准体女性之间普遍具有差异性,市场上现有服饰无法满足其日常中对服装的舒适性、美观性、功能性及特殊设计的需求。[研究方法]以衬衣为例,通过研究服装的三要素并以口袋部件辅助塑形功能为创新设计点完成上衣塑形功能研究。[研究结果]研究得出:将A廓形与O廓形组合得到了中老年凸肚体女性上衣的新服装廓形。从合体性及功能性考虑,衣身设置了肚省、腹省、褶裥等,竖向前门襟设置开口且内设按扣,领尖向下延伸的立翻领及五分直筒袖设计,兼顾保暖、舒适及便捷的同时修饰中老年凸肚体女性体型上的不足。口袋设计由插袋结构得到启发,无塑形功能需求时,口袋具有盛装物品的实用性功能;有塑形功能需求时,弹力袋布展开、转移并与衣身再结合设计,对人体腹部施加一定压力而具有塑形功能。在健康、舒适的基础上选择全棉府绸及牛奶丝,并选用简约纯色设计,增强服装面料、色彩与人体的协调统一并达到修饰体型、提升精神气质的目的,满足中老年凸肚体女性生理及心理上的着装需求。There is a general difference between the figure of middle-aged and elderly women withconvex bellies and the standard body, and the existing clothes in the market cannot meet their physiological comfort, functional dress requirements and psychological beauty needs. Taking shirt as an example, this study completed the research on the shaping function of clothing by studying the three elements of clothing and taking pocket as the innovative design point. It is concluded that A silhouette and O silhouette are combined to obtain the new clothing silhouette of middle-aged and elderly women withconvex bellies. From the consideration of fitness and function, belly seaming, stomachseaming and pleats are designed.The vertical opening of the front design, with invisible buttons inside, and the lapel design extends down the lapel and designs five-point straight sleeves, are designed to keep warm, comfortable and convenient while modifying the body defects of middle-aged and elderly women with convex belly. The pocket design is inspired by the structure of the plug-in pocket. When there is no molding function requirement,the pocket has the practical function of storing items. When the molding function is needed, the elastic bag cloth is unfolded and combined with the garment body to exert certain pressure on the human body to have the molding effect. On the basis of health and comfort, cotton poplin, micro fiber and simple pure color design are selected to enhance the harmony and unity of clothing fabric, color and human body, and to achieve the purpose of body modification and spiritual temperamentto meet the physical and psychological dressing needs of middle-aged and elderly women with with convex belly.

关 键 词：中老年服装 特殊体型 凸肚体女性 塑形功能 上衣设计 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]