外扩胸型的文胸结构优化  

Optimization of Bra Structure with External Expansion

作　　者：胡文艳 钟安华 HU Wenyan;ZHONG Anhua(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073 China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073

出　　处：《服饰导刊》2021年第6期87-91,共5页Fashion Guide

基　　金：湖北省教育厅自然科学研究项目(D20121707)。

摘　　要：[研究意义]成年女性胸部型态存在差异,所以文胸结构对不同胸型的塑形效果带来影响。[研究方法]文章基于鸡心调整和"T"字罩杯的结构设计原理,以乳房基本型态为基础,采用三维测量、问卷调查及主观评价方法对外扩型文胸结构进行研究。[研究结果]研究结果表明,通过三维测量获取146个人体胸部尺寸数据,进一步对数据进行乳间距因子、颈窝距因子和频度分析,获取外扩胸型乳间修正距离为1.8cm;根据外扩乳房特征,通过降低鸡心,设置钩扣间隔0.9cm调整鸡心距离达到胸部聚拢效果;测量BP点到各点的距离及相关比例,获取外阔型文胸的省量参数分为三组,并采用"T"字罩杯的结构分割方法设计出外扩胸型的文胸结构,从而提高对外扩乳房的贴合程度;制作样衣,通过样衣试穿对不同结构的文胸进行主观评价,选择文胸省量为(20°35°30°),鸡心左右延伸,钩扣位置固定在两侧,鸡心部位成交叠状的文胸样式。结构优化后的文胸,提高了外扩型胸型文胸的穿着美观性和贴合性。Adult women vary in breast shapes and sizes. As such, the anatomy of a bra has different impacts on the shaping effect of various breast types.This study is based on the basic shape of adult women’s breasts and the design principle of T-shape cup with the aim of adjusting center front gore. 3D measurement, questionnaire survey and subjective evaluation were used to determine the parameters of external expansion bra.The results of this study are as follows. The breast size data of 146 participants were collected by 3D measurement. Furthermore, BP(bust point) distance factor, cervical fossa-BP distance factor and frequency of the data were analyzed. Eventually, the interbreast distance of external expansion bra was revised to 1.8 cm. In accordance with the characteristics of external expansion breasts, the front gore was lowered, and the distance between two columns of eye closures was set at 0.9 cm. Consequently, the push-up bra gives the wearer a great cleavage. We made sample bras. 146 participants were required to wear bras with different parameters and then subjectively evaluate the bras they wore.(20° 35° 30°) was selected to be the dart parameter. Apart from that, the front gore was extended to both left and right sides with the cross-brace design placed here, which could be fixed with the side buckles. The distances and relevant proportions from BP to each measurement point were measured. Then, the obtained dart parameter values of the external expansion bra were divided into three groups, and the method for structural segmentation of T shape cup was employed to design the structure of external expansion bra. These methods resulted in the improvement in the bra’s fitness for external expansion breast.The optimized bra anatomy proposed by this research improves the appearance and fitness of external expansion for the wearers.

关 键 词：乳房 外扩胸型 文胸结构设计 样衣试穿 主观评价 

分 类 号：TS941.717[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]