高档色织斜纹织物的设计与生产  

Design and Production of High-grade Yarn-dyed Twill Fabric

作　　者：马顺彬 任长林 MA Shun-bin;REN Chang-lin(Nantong Flexitex Co.,Ltd,Nantong 226010;Jiangsu College of Engineering and Technology,Nantong 226007)

机构地区：[1]南通润禾纺织有限公司,江苏南通226010 [2]江苏工程职业技术学院纺织服装学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《纺织科学与工程学报》2022年第1期29-31,共3页Journal of Textile Science & Engineering

摘　　要：设计并生产了高档色织斜纹织物。从松筒、装纱、入染前处理、入染、入染后处理、烘干等方面介绍了筒子染色工序;整浆联合工序要严格控制上浆率,从烘房温度、车速等方面控制回潮率;合理设计开口时间、上机张力、车速、后梁高低与前后位置、主辅喷嘴气压与启闭时间等织造工艺。通过采取以上技术措施,生产的产品织造效率达到了92.1%,经向台时断头为0.67根/万米,纬向台时断头为0.89根/万米,下机一等品率达到97%,入库一等品率达到99%以上,达到了较好的效果。High-grade yarn-dyed twill fabric was designed and produced.The cheese dyeing process was introduced from the steps of loose winding,yarn loading,pre-dyeing treatment,dyeing,post-dyeing treatment and drying;the warping-sizing process should strictly control the sizing rate and the regain rate by controlling the drying room temperature and speed.The weaving processes such as opening time,warp tension,loom speed,height,front and back positions of rear beam,main and auxiliary nozzle air pressure and opening and closing time should be reasonably designed.Through the adoption of the above-mentioned technical measures,the weaving efficiency of the produced products reached 92.1%.The warp yarn breakage rate was 0.67 root per 10,000 meters,and the weft yarn breakage rate was 0.89 root per 10,000 meters.The first grade percentage before cloth repairing reached 97%and the first grade percentage after storage reached 99%,which achieved good results.

关 键 词：混纺纱 筒子染色 活性染料 煮漂 

分 类 号：TS106.52[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS193[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]