化妆品常用肤感改良粉体的性质与发展趋势  

Properties and development trend of commonly used cosmetic powder for improving skin feeling

作　　者：薛绘 杨盼盼 吕旭阳 韩丹 陈金龙 蒋丽刚 Hui Xue;Panpan Yang;Xuyang Lv;Dan Han;Jinlong Chen;Ligang Jiang(Proya Cosmetics Co.,Ltd.,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310012,China)

机构地区：[1]珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司,浙江杭州310012

出　　处：《日用化学工业》2022年第1期77-83,共7页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：随着彩妆产品的蓬勃发展,体质粉体由于可以调节化妆品铺展性、吸附性、贴肤性、质感、淡化视觉焦点,应用越来越广泛,涵盖护肤、防晒、彩妆等领域,受到越来越多美妆品牌的重视。本文首先简要介绍了硅石、滑石粉、云母粉、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、聚甲基硅倍半氧烷、硅弹性体粉、尼龙粉、聚氨酯粉及淀粉等肤感改良粉体,对以上粉体的表面形态、粒径、吸油值及肤感特点等性质进行归纳总结,并阐述肤感改良粉体的应用现状,然后对复合粉体与传统粉体的特点进行比较得知,随着市场的不断发展,复合粉体的附加性能更能满足现代化妆品在肤感、功效上越来越高的要求,最后对肤感改良粉体的发展趋势进行了预测,复合粉体会越来越精细化、针对性越来越强、使用会越来越便利,在护肤、防晒、彩妆等不同类型的产品选择肤感改良粉体时,不仅需要从粉体表面形态、粒径、吸油值、肤感特点等方面去综合考虑,多功能复合粉体未来会发挥越来越大的作用。With the vigorous development of color cosmetics,physical powder has been more and more widely used because it can adjust the spread,absorption,skin adhesion,texture,and fade the visual focus of cosmetics.It is applied more and more widely in all fields,covering skin care,sunscreen,make up,and is paid more and more attention by beauty brands.In this paper,silica,talcum powder,mica powder,polymethyl methacrylate,polymethylsilsesquioxane,silicon elastomer powder,nylon powder,polyurethane powder and starch were briefly introduced.The surface morphology,particle size,oil absorption value and skin feeling’s characteristics of the above powders were summarized,and the application status of skin feeling improved powders was described.Silica,as a spherical powder with smooth skin and high hardness,can absorb oil and water;talc is a layered structure with a certain covering power and strong adhesion;mica is flake structure with outstanding skin adhesion and luster;polymethylmethacrylate is softer than silica and can selectively absorb sebum;polymethylsesimiloxane is a matte spherical powder with uniform particle size distribution;silicon elastomer powder is a spherical powder with strong oil absorption,good soft coking effect;nylon’s hardness is lower than polymethylmethacrylate and its skin feel is soft;polyurethane’s hardness is lower than nylon and it has strong elasticity and cushion feeling;starch has strong smoothness and can reduce the greasy feeling.Then the characteristics of composite powder and traditional powder are compared.With the continuous development of the market,the additional performance of composite powder can better meet the higher requirements of modern cosmetics in skin feeling and efficacy.Finally,the development trend of improved skin feeling powder was predicted.The experience of composite powder is more refined,and the pertinence is stronger.When choosing the skin feeling improved powders,it is not only necessary to comprehensively consider the surface morphology,particle size,oil absorp

关 键 词：肤感改良 粉体 性质 发展趋势 化妆品 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]