靛蓝牛仔布增深染色工艺及机理研究  

Study on the darkening dyeing process and mechanism of indigo denim

作　　者：杨书伟 王荣 方小丽 余志成[1,2] Yang Shuwei;Wang Rong;Fang Xiaoli;Yu Zhicheng(College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing&Finishing of Textiles,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Jinzhao Textile Limited Company,Jinhua 321000,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,杭州310018 [3]浙江金兆纺织有限公司,浙江金华321000

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2022年第1期146-150,共5页Advanced Textile Technology

摘　　要：为提高靛蓝牛仔布染色深度,通过增加牛仔布染色K/S值以减少染色工序,实现节能减排。研究了阳离子改性剂B的改性工艺及机理,探讨了改性剂B质量浓度、改性温度、改性时间对K/S值的影响,并测试了改性前后棉织物的红外光谱和Zeta电位及改性染色后棉织物的染色牢度。结果表明:经过阳离子改性剂B处理后的棉织物再进行靛蓝染色,相同染色条件下染色K/S值从10.90提高到20.13,改性棉织物浸轧2次便可与未改性棉织物浸轧5次染色深度相当,耐皂洗色牢度、耐摩擦色牢度及耐日晒色牢度良好。优化后的改性工艺参数为:改性剂B 6 g/L,改性温度60℃,改性时间20 min。红外光谱表明改性后棉织物带有季铵基团,Zeta电位表明经改性剂B改性后棉织物表面Zeta电位由-22.10 mV转为+8.70 mV。In order to enhance the dyeing depth of indigo denim,reduce the dyeing process by increasing the K/S value of denim and realize energy conservation and emissions reduction,this paper studies the modification process and mechanism of the cationic modifier B,discusses the effect of the mass concentration of modifier B,modification temperature,modification time on K/S value,and tests the infrared spectrum and Zeta potential of the cotton fabrics before and after modification,and the dyeing fastness of the cotton fabric after dyeing.The results indicated that the cotton fabric treated with the cationic modifier B was dyed with indigo.Under the same dyeing condition,the dyeing K/S value increased from 10.90 tO_(2)0.13.The dyeing depth of the modified cotton fabric after padding twice can be equal to that of the unmodified cotton fabric after padding for 5 times,and the color fastness to soap washing,friction and sunlight were good.The optimized modification process parameters were as follows:6 g/L modifier B,a modification temperature of 60℃,and a modification time of 20 min.The infrared spectrum showed that the modified cotton fabric had a quaternary a mmonium group,and the Zeta potential showed that the surface Zeta potential of the modified cotton fabric changed from-22.1 mV to+8.70 mV.

关 键 词：靛蓝牛仔布 染色K/S值 阳离子改性 染色牢度 ZETA电位 

分 类 号：TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]