花罗组织夏布织造技艺研究  

Study on the technology of jacquard leno weave grass cloth

作　　者：卢明[1,2] 李维 刘欣 刘一萍[1,2] LU Ming;LI Wei;LIU Xin;LIU Yiping(College of Sericulture,Textile and Biomass Science,Southwest University,Chongqing 400715,China;Chongqing Engineering Research Centerof Biomaterial Fiber and Modern Textile,Chongqing 400715,China;College of Art,Xichang University,Xichang 615013,China)

机构地区：[1]西南大学蚕桑纺织与生物质科学学院,重庆400715 [2]重庆市生物质纤维材料与现代纺织工程技术研究中心,重庆400715 [3]西昌学院艺术学院,四川西昌615013

出　　处：《丝绸》2022年第1期58-63,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社科基金项目(20XMZ046);教育部人文社会科学研究项目(19YJC760070)。

摘　　要：夏布主要有平纹组织与纱罗组织两种组织结构,其中平纹组织夏布较为常见,而组织结构、织造技艺最为复杂的一种纱罗组织夏布——花罗组织夏布,则因其繁复的技艺而较为罕见。为进一步补充夏布研究体系,促进夏布及其传统织造技艺的传承发展,本文以变化经重平组织为底,奇数梭横罗显花的花罗组织夏布为研究对象,对其组织结构、织造机具及织造技艺进行研究。研究发现,当前所见花罗组织夏布有二绞经三梭横罗组织与1/2变化经重平组织分区交错排列的花罗组织夏布、二绞经五梭横罗与11/12变化经重平组织分区交错排列的花罗组织夏布、二绞经七梭横罗与111/112变化经重平组织分区交错排列的花罗组织夏布三种;在当前所用平纹夏布腰机基础上增添综片、罗棒、外接踩板,可改造成花罗组织夏布织机;织造过程中,交替下踩外接踩板、主踩板形成相应开口,引纬、打纬即可完成花罗组织夏布的织造。As a traditional hand-woven fabric called the"living fossil of ancient Chinese textiles",grass cloth originates from the ancient kudzu fabric and grass fabric about six thousand years ago.It is formed by our ancestors through continuous exploration and creation.Grass cloth culture is a part of Chinese excellent traditional culture and has some kind of historical,scientific,and cultural values.Although the inheritance and protection of grass cloth has become a hot topic since 2008 when grass cloth weaving techniques were included in the"Second Batch of National Intangible Cultural Heritage List",jacquard leno weave grass cloth still lacks necessary attention.Nowadays,with the decreasing of market demand and the aging of old craftsmen,the inheritance and development of jacquard leno weave grass cloth is in a dilemma.To make matters worse,the young generation is reluctant to learn and inherit this skill.In order to clarify the core skills of jacquard leno weave grass cloth,enrich the research system,and promote the inheritance and development of grass cloth and its traditional weaving techniques,this study takes jacquard leno weave grass cloth and its techniques from Longchang,Sichuan and Rongchang,Chongqing as the object.Based on the materials collected from the two representative grass cloth production areas,this study analyzes the implicit textile science connotation of jacquard leno weave grass cloth from three aspects:woven fabrics structure,loom and weaving techniques.It is found that there are various types of jacquard leno weave grass cloth.They are the mixture of three shuttles horizontal leno weave and 1/2 glassing weave,the mixture of five shuttles horizontal leno weave and 11/12 glassing weave,the mixture of seven shuttles horizontal leno weave and 111/112 glassing weave.It is of vital importance for craftsmen to make the jacquard leno weave grass cloth with a special machine.This machine is transformed from the loom used in the weaving process of the plain weave grass cloth through adding two ropes,four

关 键 词：夏布 纱罗组织 花罗组织 织机 腰机 织造技艺 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]