环保牛仔布用转杯纺竹节纱花型工艺设计  

Process Design of Rotor Spinning Slub Yarn Pattern for Eco-friendly Denim

作　　者：莫鸿妃 王妮[1] 汪军[1] 江慧[1] 张玉泽[1] MO Hongfei;WANG Ni;WANG Jun;JIANG Hui;ZHANG Yuze(Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学,上海201620

出　　处：《纺织器材》2021年第6期5-8,共4页Textile Accessories

摘　　要：为了开发多种风格环保牛仔布用转杯纺竹节纱,通过改变双分梳转杯纺单头试验机喂给罗拉速度,设计4种免染环保牛仔布用纱,分析其花型设计、纺纱工艺和织造工艺设计,并对4种竹节纱及竹节纱牛仔面料进行性能测试和织物风格分析。指出:基于双分梳转杯纺技术,改变不同喂给罗拉的纤维喂入量、或者改变纤维的颜色、或者改变原料等进行纺纱,纺制的纱线符合多彩竹节纱成纱标准,可得到牛仔布风格的面料;相比传统浆染一体联合生产,双分梳转杯纺纺制牛仔布用竹节纱的生产,能减少染整废水的排放及工业用水耗费,成本低、环境污染小。In order to develop rotor spinning slub yarn for eco-friendly denim with a variety of styles,four kinds of dyed-free yarns for eco-friendly denim are designed by changing feed roller speed on a single head testing machine of double carding rotor spinning,the pattern design,spinning process and weaving process design are analyzed,and the performance test and fabric style analysis of the four kinds of slub yarns and slub yarn denim are performed.It is pointed out that based on the double carding rotor spinning technology,changing the fiber feed amount of different feed rollers,or changing the color of the fiber,or changing the raw material for spinning,the spun yarn conforms to the standard of colorful slub yarn,the fabric with denim style can be obtained.Compared with the production by traditional sizing and dyeing,the production of spinning slub yarn for denim spun with the double carding rotor spinning technology can reduce the discharge of dyeing waste water and the consumption of industrial water,which is low cost and low environmental pollution.

关 键 词：转杯纺 双分梳 环保 牛仔布 竹节纱 喂给罗拉 

分 类 号：TS104.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]