清代台湾文献中的水沙连茶考——兼谈同治年间台湾乌龙茶直销海外  

A Study of Shuishalian Tea in Qing-Dynasty Taiwan Residents Literature: With a Discussion of Direct Overseas Sale of Taiwan Oolong Tea during the Reign of Emperor Tongzhi

作　　者：郝时远[1] HAO Shi-yuan(Chinese Academy of Social Sciences,Beijing 100732,China)

机构地区：[1]中国社会科学院,北京100732

出　　处：《厦门大学学报（哲学社会科学版）》2022年第1期77-87,共11页Journal of Xiamen University(A Bimonthly for Studies in Arts & Social Sciences)

摘　　要：水沙连茶是台湾特有的本土野生茶种,原产于以日月潭为中心的水沙连之地,其"色绿如松萝",味苦性寒,但有"解暑毒,消腹胀"的药用功效,属台地物产中的姣姣者。清代台湾文献显示,在大陆茶叶植根台湾之前,水沙连茶作为"番汉交易"的物产之一,在台湾汉人社会已属茶饮佳品。清乾隆年间,水沙连茶传入祖国大陆,并被收入中华本草药典,以见微知著的例证揭示了海峡两岸民间交往的密切关系。闽地茶叶传入台地对台湾茶业兴盛产生了巨大作用,以致同治年间台湾乌龙茶直销海外,成为清代中国对外贸易的重要组成部分。水沙连茶也并非如常人以为的随之销声匿迹,而是极有可能随着水沙连"生番化熟"而历经培育和焙制,成就为台湾著名的冻顶乌龙茶。Shuishalian tea is a unique native wild tea species in Taiwan. It is native to Shuishalian centered on the Sun and Moon Lake. This tea is “as green as sunglo”, bitter in taste and cold in nature. But it has the medicinal effects of antifebrile and detumescence. Therefore, it became one of the best products in Taiwan. Qing-Dynasty Taiwan Residents literature shows that, as one of the products in the “trade between the aborigines and Han Chinese”, Shuishalian tea was already a premium tea in Taiwan’s Han society before the tea of the Chinese mainland took root in Taiwan. During the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty, Shuishalian tea was introduced into the Chinese mainland and included in the Pharmacopoeia of Chinese Materia Medica. As an insightful example, it reveals the close relationship between people on both sides of the Taiwan Strait. The introduction of Fujian’s tea into Taiwan played a great role in the prosperity of Taiwan’s tea industry;as a result, Taiwan oolong tea was directly sold overseas during the reign of Emperor Tongzhi, becoming an important part of China’s foreign trade in the Qing Dynasty. Shuishalian tea did not disappear as ordinary people think;rather, it was likely cultivated and baked with Shuishalian’s “transformation from uncivilized to civilized” and became the famous Dongding oolong tea in Taiwan.

关 键 词：清代 台湾文献 水沙连茶 

分 类 号：K295.8[历史地理—历史学] K249[历史地理—中国史]